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HighGrass
09-08-2004, 12:55 AM
1.) When does a lawn require aeration, and what are the signs?

2.) What is a better aeration method...spike or plug?

EJK2352
09-08-2004, 01:33 AM
Most of the lawns in my area are growing in heavy clay soils, so an annual aeration helps a lawn develop a stronger root system. The lawns that I aerate twice a year (Spring & Fall) do real well when we have a dry spell. Core aeration is the only way to go, spike aeration can compound compaction problems.

odin
09-08-2004, 01:44 AM
plug is the way to go..spike is useless probably hurts more then helps.

Areation is a ongoing process it needs to be done every year.

Etlawn
09-08-2004, 01:57 AM
I would recommend aerating at least once per season. It is done to reduce the thatch layer in the lawn. To much thatch will provide areas for turf eating insects to hide and harbor disease. Lawns with excessive thatch will feel spongy when you walk on them. Also you will want to go with the plugs as mentioned before....
good luck as it can be a good money maker

GarPA
09-08-2004, 08:01 AM
as mentioned, "spiking" only compacts the soil even more
coring is the way to go....nearly every lawn should be cored at least once per year. A green and healthy "looking" lawn does not necessarily mean that the root system is healthy as the first time the turf gets stressed from summer heat or dry conditions, these lawns will show the stress more than those with a healthy root system. This year you will hear allot of customers say "my lawn looks so healthy because of all the rain so do I really need to aerate?"....
yes for 2 reasons....
1. rain compacts soil and lord knows we've had allot of that
2. mowers compact soil...and in most places this summer mowing every 3 to 4 days was not uncommon

HighGrass
09-08-2004, 05:01 PM
So do most of you guys rent or own aeration machines. I'm probably only going ot aerate our lawns this year, but next year, maybe more.

Thanks again.

GarPA
09-08-2004, 05:24 PM
I own mine but be careful b4 you buy one. Aeration is not always an easy sell so b4 you take the leap, make sure you have a sense of the revenue you will generate to make sure it makes dollars and sense...renting certain machines is not always a bad thing...inconvenient yes. Aeration machines take more routine maintenance than most of the other machines we use. If I had to do over I would have bought a tow behind model and rented the walk behinds.

chimmygew
09-08-2004, 05:27 PM
How do you go about pricing for aeration?

rodfather
09-08-2004, 05:30 PM
Rule of thumb is around 10 or 12 bucks per k square footage with a minimum of 50 or 75 dollars.

Lux Lawn
09-08-2004, 05:33 PM
We use a Ryan that I bought used at a local rental shop a few years ago.

Pricing- A lot of guys around here charge what they get for there monthly maintenance to cut the grass or you could go by the Sq.ft.

GarPA
09-08-2004, 06:31 PM
in my neck of the woods 14 per k is about avg for legit companies...some a little more some a little less....14 is as low as I go

Drew Gemma
09-09-2004, 12:22 AM
Plug! Plug! Plug! Core aerification is the only method unless you are caring for a putting green in the wet spring prior to play then spike or verta drain but that is a whole other story. If you fertilize you aerate every year in Ohio my region the second week of September is the best window. Aeration helps improve the (cation exchange system)(chemistry) this is how nutrients and water are adsorbed and used by the roots of the turf grass plant. Now apply a seed over top of the aeration with core type aeration you get better soil to seed contact. If you have a weedy thin yard you time it so when the weeds are about to die from frost your newly seeded turf is germinated so by the next spring the turf is well established and crowds the area so the weed seeds such as crabgrass can't germinate as much cause the new turf shades and crowds out the weed seeds. If you only do one thing to a yard aerification is the best thing to do. OSU Turf grass major!

golfgreen
09-12-2004, 07:36 AM
Okay, No doubt aeration is necessary for growing conditions and profitable for the company. There are many machine choices, from walk behind (I own a Ryan, but only use it own my own lawn) to tow behind.

Say you charge $14ft2, what procedure does the client expect. Just core and leave the plugs? Seed and amend soil as necessary? Simple as that? Does any one drag, blow, mow up cores as part of the aerification process?

I assume just plug cores and thats it. Seed and amend as needed and thats it. I have aerified lots of times for the golf course, but curious of residential lawns. What about those of you that aerify sports fields?

Thanks,
Golfgreen

HighGrass
09-12-2004, 02:31 PM
Okay, No doubt aeration is necessary for growing conditions and profitable for the company. There are many machine choices, from walk behind (I own a Ryan, but only use it own my own lawn) to tow behind.

Say you charge $14ft2, what procedure does the client expect. Just core and leave the plugs? Seed and amend soil as necessary? Simple as that? Does any one drag, blow, mow up cores as part of the aerification process?

I assume just plug cores and thats it. Seed and amend as needed and thats it. I have aerified lots of times for the golf course, but curious of residential lawns. What about those of you that aerify sports fields?

Thanks,
Golfgreen

All great questions...i especially like the mowing of the plugs?

grasswhacker
09-12-2004, 02:43 PM
I leave the plugs on the lawn, but try to get them off any walk or drive. I do not seed amend or drag after aerification is complete. Most of the seed would go to waste just laying on the ground, some will get into the holes and some will make contact with the cores. I'd say about 25% of the seed would ever germinate doing it that way. If you only going to throw seed out without working it into the soil then around the 1st part of Feb would be better for that method.

Andyinchville2
09-13-2004, 01:09 AM
Hooker Aerators from JRCo Rule....If you buy a few accessories from them you can Dethatch, Mow, Fertilize, and Aerate all in 1 pass....I set up an Exmark 48tt w/ Jr co
front mount Dethatcher, Electric Broadcast spreader, and have their old style hooker aerator that mounts to the rear of the machine....Doing all at 1 time is serious profits!

JBird
03-13-2005, 11:44 AM
Hooker Aerators from JRCo Rule....If you buy a few accessories from them you can Dethatch, Mow, Fertilize, and Aerate all in 1 pass....I set up an Exmark 48tt w/ Jr co
front mount Dethatcher, Electric Broadcast spreader, and have their old style hooker aerator that mounts to the rear of the machine....Doing all at 1 time is serious profits!

Please school me on this. The "HOOKER" at 6 holes per sq ft? how is that, I just spoke with the sales rep on Friday and he said "everyone loves it" can you say RED FLAG everyone can't agree on anything let alone everything. All I have ever learned, been taught or shown says 21 holes per sq ft. Especially if over seeding. I use a bluebird 48 in pull behind and make bidirectional passes to get the correct count. I can't imagine what the hooker would take to even get close? Please help me understand.

Jason

Brian M
04-04-2005, 01:19 AM
what Jbird said