View Full Version : nutgrass control

Island Lawn
01-13-2001, 02:40 AM
I've got a customer w/ a juniper/nutgrass bed.
She wants the nutgrass out. She is not concerned with damaging or killing the juniper, I would rather not.
Also in the beds, under a layer of pine straw, is cheap black plastic "fabric" with nugrass growing through it everywhere. Should I just take this up? Could this inhibit the effectiveness of the pesticide?
This is a well established stand of nutgrass.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I took my pest exam a couple of days ago. I was well prepared for it. I expect to have "restricted use" access within 4-6 weeks.

01-13-2001, 01:38 PM
I use Manage for nutgrass in turf and it works well, but you'll have to check the label as to its effect on junipers. If the plastic already has holes in it, pull it up.

01-13-2001, 10:00 PM
I have used Trimec Plus for yellow nut sedge with great results in lawns. I am switching to Manage this year due to Trimec's unforgiving heat tolerance. I am not sure about use around a juniper.

You might be surprised what Roundup can do without damage to junipers since Roundup is suggested for Christmas tree and evergreen farms.

Check some labels or manufacturer's websites.

01-14-2001, 01:01 PM
Is nutgrass a southern equivalent of yellow nutsedge, or is it a different plant?

Island Lawn
01-14-2001, 09:08 PM
Thanks for the info!
After the tips, I did some follow up research.
I'm giving "Manage" the GREEN light.

As I understand, nutgrass is yellow sedge.

Thanks again for the tips!
I love this site!

01-14-2001, 10:32 PM
I've used Manage and it works. However its pricy at $10 a gallon!

01-14-2001, 10:48 PM
Agree that Manage is the route to go. But don't skimp on the directions. When you're paying $10/gal for basic ingredient, don't forget the few cents worth of surfactant. That can make a major difference in success rate.

Island Lawn
01-19-2001, 01:32 AM
Thanks everyone!
My next quetion is when is the best time to apply Manage?

01-19-2001, 06:41 PM
I have found Trimec plus to work great on nutsedge... cheap too... consentrate is 40 bucks a gallon

01-19-2001, 11:27 PM
I've always applied Manage as soon as the Nutgrass is visible. Give it good coverage when spraying!

Island Lawn
02-12-2001, 12:07 PM
I went to LESCO and got some Manage. I'm waiting for visible signs (could be any day now?, Temps reaching mid 60's and we are gettting rain)

As far as surfacant, Lesco offered to sell me a bunch, but he told me I could get the same effect w/ dishwashing soad(it breaks the surface tension)

Anybody hear of this?
What do you think?

02-12-2001, 12:22 PM
1 Gal jug of Lesco surfactant = hundreds of gal of finished spray. Has a label for use on turfgrass, and directions for mixing and use. Also has a MSDS. Never saw a bottle of dish soap with these. If asked by state or federal regulators, where do you get MSDS for dishsoap. Yes, cheaper is usually just cheaper, and often less functional.

02-12-2001, 01:05 PM

Contact the manfacturer from the bottle of dish soap. They must provide you with a MSDS, it is the law. It is also the law that WE have MSDS for everything that is used by us, not just pesticides. It's kind of crazy, but by law everthing we use that could contact an employee or customer must have a MSDS. So be sure you all get a MSDS for that bottle of MowEze, handcleaner, and deoderant you keep in the truck.

Sorry, did not answer question. YES, I have heard of it. That Jerry (the TV gardener guy) uses dish soap for that. I have also heard it mentioned at a pesticide training seminar. I have never done it myself though. I have used some from Gordon's when using their grassy weed herbicide for ground covers, but never for lawn herbicide. I would buy the Lesco stuff, it will give you directions of how much to use, dish soap will not.

[Edited by Skookum on 02-12-2001 at 12:22 PM]

02-13-2001, 10:20 AM
Be careful about using soap as a sticking agent. I don't remember all the specifics but.... About 11 years ago when I worked for another Lawn company they used dish soaps as a sticker. There was some kind of problem with the detergent reacting with either the Urea Nitrogen (liguid tank mix) or it was the herbicide (sorry I can't remember which). There was alot of lawns burned that year and a study showed that the soap (reacting with either the fert. or the herb.) was the cause. I would check with your local university extension office to find out what soaps are ok.
Will somebody let me know if I'm wrong about this? It was a long time ago and I'm not positive that I am remembering this right.

02-13-2001, 02:41 PM

Read your lable, Monsanto does not endorse an over the top appliction of manage. You might want to test it on a location not visiable to the customer.

You can use manage around woody ornamentals, but caution around recently transplanted plants.

I have sprayed round up over the top of blue-rug junipers with good success but use caution.

Paradise Yard Service
02-17-2001, 05:17 AM
I use Monteray Heed-Hoe on the lawns (southern), and can use in some of my beds. 'Image' (exspensive) is used most here for better selective control in ornamental situations. Get a good plastic cover over the area as nut-grass/kalinga can take lots of chemical/time to control with only marginal/temporary results at best. You need to cover those bare spots! Usually the Zoysias/Bermudas cover in tight to shut down nutsedges. Also, nutsedge thrives in overwet conditions. Over watering a common problem here, sometimes due to bad sprinkler design/malfunction. Hope this helps.

Paradise Yard Service
02-17-2001, 05:19 AM
Sorry, Thats Monteray Weed-Hoe!