View Full Version : Pebble yard and round-up
10-16-2004, 11:01 PM
I have a new customer who has a pebble yard (there are alot of these in Florida) anyhow she just purchased the home and paid me to clean up the back yard (Overgrown Grass) and I did such a nice job I talked her into paying me $300 to remove the weeds in the front of her home and re-mulch 2 small islands. I also charged $75 for a gallon of concentrated Round-up. Anyhow my question is Do you think the round-up will do the job? I plan on just using my trimmer to cut down weeds and spray the entire front yard. has anyone been here before? any suggestions to make job easier?
10-16-2004, 11:04 PM
Yea that should be fine trim it down and then spray it. you are going to wan the grass to die before mulching over it. Make sure you use the proper mixture when mixing the chemicals.
10-17-2004, 02:11 AM
Not totally sure on what you're talking about. In AZ we have lots of rock lawns, granite mostly of variou sizes and river rock sometimes for different texture combos. Hit the weeds with broadleaf weed killer if they are broadleafs, cheaper usually than Round Up. Spot spray to get the weds. putting spray on the bare ground won't do anything if it's a contact kill. Use a pre-emergent to prevent future weeds like Montereys weedstopper(Surflan)if they even sell it anymore and there will be less weeds comming up over time. When the weeds dry out they will be much easier to take down. Pre-emergent is not cheap but over the long run will be worth it. Careful with a weedwhacker out there, can zing a rock into a window or even worse an eye! At work after the stuff was dead usually just a rake through the granite would pull the weeds out. Don't know exactly what type of weeds you have in this yard. Use your Round Up on grasses and stuff that the broad leaf won't work on. Hope this helps. :waving:
10-17-2004, 07:43 AM
I plan on just using my trimmer to cut down weeds and spray the entire front yard.
You said that backwards. Spray first, wait for them to die, then remove the dead weeds.
I've used Hyvar, a soil sterilant, in stone beds. To reduce the bleeding or runoff, I reduce the concentration to a 4% solution. If I mix it like it states on the label, what I spray as a 4" border around a foundation bleeds out to a foot! But it's much more effective at the higher concentration.
If your client has patience, soil sterilants do more than roundup. It stops regrowth. But it takes up to a month to kill the existing weeds.
You could remove the weeds first, then apply soil sterilant. It'll take a little longer to see results with a sterilant, but once it takes hold, it's clean for the season. Some are effective for years.
10-17-2004, 10:12 AM
Ditto what David said, let time do the work for you. And you end up with a better looking job.
10-17-2004, 11:06 AM
Hey , we just started using direct flame a few weeks ago in our rock beds. It may be worth looking into, as we have had pretty good luck with it. The heat(2000 degrees F) explodes the cells in the grass / weeds within seconds. Die off takes about a day or so. You can't do this around tender annuals or any trees of less than 1", or in mulched areas or areas that have fabric under them. The extreme heat also helps to sterilize the soil, and a few monthly treatments followed by a pre em, would more than likely do the trick. I am trying to cut back on product, and supplement with flaming. It worked on killing off a 2600sqft yard two weeks ago, as soon as I get pics, I'll post some. Find out more here: www.flameengineering.com
10-17-2004, 11:57 AM
Thanks everyone you've been very helpful
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