View Full Version : how much stone? how much to charge?

11-01-2004, 02:49 PM
this is a rough one for me to estimate. i do have the option with these particular clients to charge by the hour for labor, because i've been servicing thier property which is basically in the woods, doing leaf cleanup, for 3 yrs now, and it's all charged by the hour, so i can do that, but i don't want to. here is the job: i have to put in 90 ft of perferated black plastic drain pipe. all digging, in soft easy soil, will be done by hand. i'll use 3/4" bluestone on the bottom, and 1.5" deleware stone on top. so i'm assuming the trench will be 18" wide, by......as deep as i need to go to get the pipe underground, and covered with like 3" of stone. i hope this description is ok. any ideas on pricing? i may just have to charge hourly for labor, and then add materials. thanks

11-01-2004, 03:03 PM
12 hrs. + materials

about 750 total

11-01-2004, 03:09 PM
12 HOURS? are u sure? man, i was gonna figure 6. i could have burned myself real bad

11-01-2004, 03:10 PM
What is it you are trying to do, a French drain? Are you going to grow grass back on top if it?
First, I wouldn't think that your trench has to be 18" wide. If you are using regular drain tile that is most commonly used, it is 4 1/2" A shovel width is approx. 9" wide.
If you figure 6" deep on the bottom, you would be looking at just under a yard and a half. At 4" it would be around a yard.
If you ARE going to put sand and soil on top to grow turf, you need to use peagravel on top of the pipe, so the dirt doesnt settle down into the stone on top. 1 1/2" is way too large for this. I hope this helps.

11-01-2004, 04:32 PM
runner, what i'm trying to do, is this: the landscaping is in front of the house, which is at the bottom of a hill. the water runs down, and washes away the turf in front of the landscaping, further eroding the ground, and making a mess. i plan to put the pipe, on the bottom of the hill, where the hill meets the landscaping, and run the pipe along the entire front of the house, around the side, and into the back woods. i'll put the 1.5" deleware stone on top, cus it will allow the water to go thru, and into the pipe, and the 1.5" deleware stone is what she has in her landscape beds, so it will just be like extending the bed 18".

11-01-2004, 09:00 PM
12 migh be a little high

go dig a 10' section in your back yard, or front, then use that as a estimate.

They make drain tile with a sock over it, to stop the soil from washing into it.

11-01-2004, 09:03 PM
excellent idea phish, excellent. will do that tommorow

11-01-2004, 09:19 PM
Mr. Bobby Gedd,
I'm appalled that you are asking us common folk pe-ons how to estimate your job. I thought you knew everything. How will anyone know how fast you can dig to accarately estimate this? Have you thought about where you are going to put your spoils. I can see you now, you with your spade shovel and chico with the wheelbarrow pushing 2 football fields to get to the woods to dump.........

11-01-2004, 09:36 PM
Depending on material costs, delivery, dumping, etc. in Jersey, you should be OK with an $ 800-1000.00 quote for this job.Make sure to use a soil fabric over the pipe, and allow 1" fall for 100' to carry the water away to the end of the pipe. Curtain drains like these are very profitable when installed correctly.If possible, use some tarps to windrow your dirt on , then you will leave the lawn free of mud, and spend less time backfilling and cleaning up.Two of you(if that's the scenario here..lol) should be able to get this dug , placed , and filled in a half day, depending on the soil conditions. Don't forget to call Miss Utility to check for unforseen obstructions, like cable TV lines or telephone cables..lol

11-01-2004, 10:12 PM
Oops, forgot to tell you how much stone to get.
3/4" for bottom of trench @ 4": 90'LX10"WX12"D : .75 ton-1 ton
Top of trench: 1 ton-1.25 tons @ 3-4"

11-01-2004, 10:26 PM
But still, without question, pearock is the best thing to use for this. This is one of the major uses for this, and it drains just fine. The 1 1/2" is just too big if you are putting topsoil over it - it will defeat the purpose, as it (the topsoil) will wash all down into the rock over a short time. I still wasn't clear on if that's what you were doing or not. Perhaps you weren't. Maybe you were just going to leave the gravel uncovered since you mentioned that it is a match for the stuff she has in her bed.

The LawnSmith
11-01-2004, 11:56 PM
Very good comments from ImpactLandscaping. Priority 1 is the "CALL BEFORE YOU DIG" folks for proper marking of the area. Cut through a fiber optic line and you're through!!!. I use a metal detector to search for the waterlines or other lines that aren't marked by them that are present afterwards. (Doesn't work on PVC though). Ensure you have plenty of gravel and slope in the pipe to drain and keep the water from pooling. The sock aroud the pipe works well. Apply enough backfill to allow for settling afterwards. I tamp the dirt over the pipe and still overfill to ensure level ground after a rain or two.

11-02-2004, 01:31 PM
i contacted client, gave a price range of $600-$800.she said do it. i'm looking at $35 for perforated pipe, 2.5 ton of stone for a total of about $110 in materials. here is my plan: i will dig the trench, put weed barrier down, blue stone on top of the weed barrier. lay the pipe down. cover the pipe with about 3" of deleware stone to match the stone in the beds. i will make sure i have a pitch of about .25 an inch every 25 feet. is this acceptible?

11-02-2004, 11:06 PM
Oh, so you ARE going to have the stone right up at the surface of the ground...
Is this in a lawn area? If so, why don't you just make a French drain?

11-02-2004, 11:21 PM
wtf is a french drain?

11-03-2004, 01:35 AM
It's like what you described, but it has turf growing on top of it. They do it on golf courses and athletic fields. That's why what I was thinkingh, if you are mowing in that area, that would be more suitable to your needs. I'm certain someone in the landscape forum could help you out with this and/or get you a diagram of how it's done.
Oh, and your drop should be 1' per 10', not 1" per 100'.

11-03-2004, 01:49 AM
I meant 1" per 10', not 1" per 100'.
Above, I wrote 1' per 10' but it wouldn't let me edit it. :)