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Tonyr
11-01-2004, 08:06 PM
I have a chute blocker plate, obviously like all it leaves a windrow, (not ocdc)
so I had a mulch baffle attached so the clippings flow along the flow control baffle and around this attachment hoping to elliminate the windrow by mulching.

I still get a windrow, but the back pressure under the deck is allowing it to mulch, but I want it better.

The baffle matches the oem specs. as per original mulch kit.

2 things I've thought of is,
a. run 2 blades on the discharge spindle to create more flow.
b. as I've seen in a pic here place a lip along the bottom of the mulching baffle to keep clippings from touchdown longer.

As I'm getting this done at a shop I'm at over $100 already, so I just wanted to see if you guys can give me ideas before I continue?

No, I'm not trying to similate an OCDC, I need to mulch some areas, and quickly return to side discharging, but the toro mulch kit takes too long to fit so I'm wanting to cheat.

T.L.C.
11-01-2004, 09:42 PM
That looks like it may work....Let us know how it works out!... You helped me w/my mulch kit install a couple of weeks back..Brought it back to the dealer & they coudn't install either...Called Toro & they suggested "slotting" the hard to line-up holes to make them fit... They have had numerous complaints about them...I definitely want to know how this item works out! Keep us informed!

Tonyr
11-01-2004, 10:33 PM
Thanks mate,

yeah the full oem mulch kit from the new Z500 series Toro works great, but in my opinion it is for putting on a machine and leaving it on, more a permanent thing so the mower remains a mulch only jobby.

Works excellent, just having to remove the adjustable baffle system to install the kit which in itself is big, heavy, awkward is a painful job.

If I could mulch only I would, I love this kit that much, but long grass, wet grass, etc, etc, just too many variables to slow you down enough to not be able to mulh all of the time, especially in a freak industry over here, touches their knee then they call a contractor LOL!

I'm sure I can get this sorted to a good enough state, just need some feedback, getting a bit expensive going at it blind.

Just thinking, I don't even know why it is still windrowing, the rounded baffle should prevent this as it is in the exact position of the oem baffle, hmmmm.

Maybe it's all designed to work off flow, vacume etc from 3 blades to get clippings cycling correctly when full kit is on...not just a simple matter of chambers...might be more complex than i thought....maybe thats why kits cost so much! LOL!

dvmcmrhp52
11-01-2004, 11:22 PM
Tony,
I believe a mulching kit works without windrowing simply because there are chambers............you are not collecting three chambers worth of clippings into one, rather each chamber disperses it's own smaller amount..........
I like your Idea if it can be made to be "acceptable" even if not perfect because there are times it would be quite useful but I agree with a full mulching kit being a pain in the proverbial derriere because of the lack of convenience in removal or replacement from job to job or day to day.

Have you tried just running a different blade on the discharge side?
I'm just guessing your running raptors or gators or some such type of mulching blade,maybe run OEM mulching blades on the two outer chambers and a gator or raptor on the discharge??????
Different blade combos is what I'm getting...........

Tonyr
11-01-2004, 11:57 PM
G'Day Dave,

I think you are absolutly right mate, re chambers...

I'm trying to acheive the impossible, I know it won't work as well as a kit, but for places with leaves, small areas, some sort of mulching is needed without the standard ocdc windrow effect....obviously with my idea the mulch will be heavier one end, that's ok, the thing is at least mulching now, just needs fine tuning.

I'm thinking more run a highlift or 2 mulchers or something like you blokes do on the discharge spindle to throw the clippings back into the deck, then hopefully they will mulch down before coming back, at least the increased flow from the end spindle should reduce windrowing...

Eric on here, frankenscagmachines, he made a ocdc style with a lip on the inside bottom edge, I don't know exactly what this does, I'm hoping he can advise me before I blow more bucks at the welding shop.

BTW, I have the adjustable choked up too, means each blade throws directly into the next, not around, even doing this running raptors clippings are fine, but I just want to take it further LOL!

Tonyr
11-02-2004, 05:53 PM
Love some more feedback, ideas, theories guys....please?

FrankenScagMachines
11-02-2004, 06:15 PM
Tony,
Just saw this thread. sorry didn't see it sooner.
Yeah have your welding shop take a peice of angle iron, about 3/16" thick, and 1 1/2" wide (cut length to fit) and weld it to the bottom of that thing so it creates a lip to stick in the deck. Make sure this thing is lower than the blade! You don't want the blade to hit it, even if you decide to run double blades or offset mulching blades or whatever. Yeah that and maybe experiment with different type of blades too. The mulching lip will really help alot, and yes leave your baffles choked like you say you're running them. I'd try running a mulching type blade on the left and middle spindle, and a standard lift on the discharge spindle. That probably would work ok. I ran doubles on my Scag and Exmark walk behind's with that OCDC with a lip on it, ran standard lifts with a gator type blade on top of that, and they mulched very well with the OCDC shut. I was going to build an OCDC for my Ferris Z, but it will be alot trickier than on the walk behinds because the machine is built alot more compact and the gas tank is in the way. So i never had time to look at it and come up with a good design. This winter i will though, probably something alot like a Masterchute i am thinking.

But anyway, try the mulching lip idea. have them put only small welds on it, enough to hold it but not so much you can't get it off, and try it that way and see how it goes. if you don't like it, have them take it off. If you do like it, have them weld it on more securely.
Good luck mate!
Eric

Tonyr
11-02-2004, 06:29 PM
Thanks Eric,

I'll drop it down to the welding guys later today, running a high lift or doubles on the end spindle to throw the clippings back into the works is the trick i think, when i tested this it was on a damp overgrown ferral lawn too, and it mulched quite well, just the overflow windrowed, but i think this can be reduced and by just overlapping the excess each time is still going to be an advantage.

wish Toro made a quick fit kit, so much more practical for contractors....

thanks again mate!

FrankenScagMachines
11-02-2004, 07:47 PM
Not a problem Tony! I think this might just do the trick for you. It really makes a huge difference in my experience.

Tonyr
11-02-2004, 07:51 PM
just stepped back in, while i was out i was thinking, the lip you use on yours, do you feel it's main purpose is to reduce/stop blowout, or keep clippings from going to ground longer for improved mulching?

thanks Eric.

FrankenScagMachines
11-02-2004, 08:03 PM
just stepped back in, while i was out i was thinking, the lip you use on yours, do you feel it's main purpose is to reduce/stop blowout, or keep clippings from going to ground longer for improved mulching?

thanks Eric.
Both. It made a very large difference on both of my old walk behinds' decks. The Scag was the old style deck which is kind of more like your Toro with baffles opened up, and the eXmark is a lot like your Toro with baffles closed up.
I like your round curved baffle peice, I bet that would help a little. If you put the lip on and don't like it, you might try takin the curved baffle peice off, but i don't think it would be a problem. Just a thought.
Eric

Roger
11-04-2004, 01:18 PM
I posted a note a couple of months ago on this topic, but received little feedback.

Now the leaf season is in high gear, I've tried several new options this year. I have a 36" Exmark Viking, fixed deck, two 18" spindles. I wanted to find a way to do "rough" leaf mulching, but also need to do discharge much of the time. Despite having a mulching kit, I cannot afford the time to mount/dismount the kit quickly.

I simply have taken a metal plate and bolted it to the outside of the discharge chute (two bolts along top edge). I was hoping to find a way to use the cloth bagger backing plate mounting holes for easy on/off, but I am not able to fabricate anything (no welder, etc).

The scheme has saved me huge amounts of time and eliminated gathering and hauling away leaves. Sometimes I mount it for only 10 minutes to cover a small area, then recut with discharge and scatter remaining chips.

I have tried hi-lift Gators, regular Gators, and Snapper Ninja blades (I had them from grass mulching experiments in years past). Also, I've tried moving them up and down the spindle bolt. The best results are with the Ninja blades, mounted with two washers up, two washers down. The mulching action is better than with Gators, and the lift is lower (resulting in far less blowout and windrowing).

Sometimes I stripe back/forth, when I know I will cross cut with discharge. Sometimes, I work round-n-round, working with right side on the inside. This wipes out any windrow with the next pass. The second choice is not my preference, because of the resulting pattern.

Also, we've learned to use our Lesco 8hp wheeled blower following the mulching pass. This has worked well on better lawns, even with heavy leaf covers. The blower drives the chips into the turf and blows away any whole leaves that may escape the deck. The blowing passes are done 8-10 feet away from the mowing pass so that whole leaves are not blown into a windrow. This method does not work well when the leaves are not evenly distributed across the lawn. I'm amazed at how well the process works and leaves the lawn looking, even though it may be heavily covered when we start. No customer has complained about "leaving the leaves," even though we've gathered them and hauled them away in past seasons.