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Wolfie's L&L
11-15-2004, 06:32 PM
Heres my winter servicing checklist for my John Deere 21". Any additions are welcome!

-Take Off/Sharpen Blades

-Scrape/Powerwash(??) Under Deck

-Check Spark Plug-Change If Needed

-Change Oil-10W30

-Clean or Replace Air Filter

-Lubricate Moving Parts


One question: Should I or should I not empty the gas out of the tank?


Jason

fga
11-15-2004, 06:37 PM
mine is...
take off truck
make sure no leaf leavings..
put in shed....

starts up in spring on 2 pulls, with a little prime, for the last 6 years. :)

i do a good cleaning in spring though. it probably doesn't need it, but anything to get out of the house after the winter. nothing sweeter then the sound of a duraforce 2 stoke in mid march. :angel:

sethsodsquad
11-15-2004, 10:21 PM
Looks good Jason - except for a couple things.

If you are going to powerwash your mower - just do it under the deck. Make sure that none of the water goes into the engine. After washing under the deck, start up the mower to make sure the engine still runs. Do the powerwashing when it's not going to freeze anytime soon either. (Oh, and lubricate AFTER you spray).

Are you sure you want to use 10W30? I use SAE 30 so that it doesn't burn as much - also better for outdoor equipment that has different conditions than cars and such.

I drain the gas out of the tanks in the winter. I siphon/pull the gas tank out and then run the mower so that the gas in the fuel line and carb are gone too. I think this is the best way because then you don't have to worry about the gas anyways.
If you are going to leave gas in the mower, make sure to keep it topped off and add some fuel stabilizer.

I also usually clean off everything else besides under the deck (engine and top deck) too. I just don't powerwash it. I take off the protective plastic pieces and use a compressor or shop-vac to get dirt, leaves, and grass clippings out.

One last thing - check with your manual for the ultimate "winterizing" source. It'll have what the engine manufacturer wants you to do with it every season. If you don't have a manual, most manufacturers have owners manuals on the internet now.

Seth

impactlandscaping
11-15-2004, 11:10 PM
mine is...
take off truck
make sure no leaf leavings..
put in shed....

starts up in spring on 2 pulls, with a little prime, for the last 6 years. :)

i do a good cleaning in spring though. it probably doesn't need it, but anything to get out of the house after the winter. nothing sweeter then the sound of a duraforce 2 stoke in mid march. :angel:


Adam, mine is take it off the trailer, put it in the garage, use it to mow my own lawn with next year. Next spring we are 21" free baby!!!

fga
11-16-2004, 09:48 AM
Adam, mine is take it off the trailer, put it in the garage, use it to mow my own lawn with next year. Next spring we are 21" free baby!!!
if i did away with my 21's... i'd go from 80 down to 2 accounts. :rolleyes:
the thing is, "I" did away with the 21's this year, but my worker didn't. :) i don't think i touched it until he migrated back home in October. :realmad: for the last few weeks, i've gotten refamiliarized with it. :help:

bugspit
11-16-2004, 10:00 AM
add or replace the fuel filter.

I add "fuel stabilizer" to the fuel tank and run it on my last mowing, then fill the tank full, clean and store.

Leaving an empty tank will collect moisture.

I also use anti-seize on the blade bolt after resharpening.

tiedeman
11-16-2004, 11:59 AM
the one that I have, which I haven't used in 5 months, I will:

change the spark plug
change air filter
change oil
sharpen blades and/or change it
clean and wax the mower
clean out under the deck
check up on pull rope to see if it needs to be replaced
run fuel stabilizer through it

mtdman
11-16-2004, 12:38 PM
Only thing I do to any of my mowers is make sure they are greased well, add fuel stabilizer, and shove to the back to make room for the snow blowers. I do all the maint in the spring.

:D

arpat2
11-16-2004, 01:06 PM
add or replace the fuel filter.

I add "fuel stabilizer" to the fuel tank and run it on my last mowing, then fill the tank full, clean and store.

Leaving an empty tank will collect moisture.

I also use anti-seize on the blade bolt after resharpening.
Anti-Seize is some great stuff. I use it on almost everything.

BULLGRAZER
11-16-2004, 02:19 PM
Empty the Gas Tank:
Unused gas left in a mower over the winter can get stale, gumming up the carburetor and inviting rust. First, add fuel stabilizer to the tank, then run the mower to distribute it through the system. Turn the mower off and allow the engine to cool, then siphon excess gas into a clean can. ( You can put this gas in your car, provided it hasn't been mixed with oil.) Restart the mower and run it until it stops; repeat until the engine no longer starts and the fuel lines are empty.

Disconnect the Spark Plug:
Before continuing with the remaining maintenance steps, it's very important that you disconnect the spark plug to prevent the mower from kick-starting accidentally, which could lead to serious injury.

Remove the Blade:
To make it easier to change the oil and clean the underside of the mower, first detach the blade by unscrewing the bolts that hold it in place. Be sure to wear thick gloves when handling the blade. While the blade is off, take advantage of the opportunity to sharpen it

Drain the Oil:
If the mower has a 4-cycle engine, you'll need to change the oil. (Some mowers and most trimmers have 2-cycle engines, in which the oil is mixed with the gas.) Have a pan ready, and place a tarp under the mower to catch any oil that may spatter. Set the mower on its side with the air filter and carburetor facing up, so oil and residual gas don't spill into them. Remove the oil reservoir plug and slowly tilt the mower until the oil begins to drain into the pan. Replace the plug when all the oil has drained.

Clean the Undercarriage:
Use a putty knife and wire brush to scrape off the grass and mud caked on the mower deck. This prevents rust, clears the passageway to the discharge chute, and allows the aerodynamics of the deck to work as designed. With the deck cleaned, reattach the sharpened blade. Once you've finished and can turn the mower upright, fill the oil tank with fresh SAE 30 or 30-weight oil, and recycle the used oil at a service station. Don't use a thicker oil, such as 10W-40.

Change the Air Filter:
A dirty air filter keeps the engine from burning gas efficiently by restricting the air needed for combustion. If your mower has a paper filter, replace it with a new one, paper edges facing out. If it's an oil-soaked sponge filter, remove it, wash it out with soap and water, allow it to dry completely, and then add a bit of clean oil to it before putting it back. Clear the cooling fins of dirt and debris using a screwdriver or Popsicle stick.

Replace the Spark Plug:
Remove and replace the spark plug, using a socket wrench with a spark-plug socket, which has a neoprene lining to protect the plug's porcelain casing. Even if the old spark plug is in good shape, for a couple of dollars a new one will perform better and ensure a smooth start come spring.

copied from - http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/yardandgarden/article/0,16417,362721,00.html

Also a good idea to check the owners manual for any other suggestions or tips for winter storage.

-=KC=-
BULLGRAZER

chief5139
11-16-2004, 02:19 PM
Looks good Jason - except for a couple things.

If you are going to powerwash your mower - just do it under the deck. Make sure that none of the water goes into the engine. After washing under the deck, start up the mower to make sure the engine still runs. Do the powerwashing when it's not going to freeze anytime soon either. (Oh, and lubricate AFTER you spray).

Are you sure you want to use 10W30? I use SAE 30 so that it doesn't burn as much - also better for outdoor equipment that has different conditions than cars and such.

I drain the gas out of the tanks in the winter. I siphon/pull the gas tank out and then run the mower so that the gas in the fuel line and carb are gone too. I think this is the best way because then you don't have to worry about the gas anyways.
If you are going to leave gas in the mower, make sure to keep it topped off and add some fuel stabilizer.

I also usually clean off everything else besides under the deck (engine and top deck) too. I just don't powerwash it. I take off the protective plastic pieces and use a compressor or shop-vac to get dirt, leaves, and grass clippings out.

One last thing - check with your manual for the ultimate "winterizing" source. It'll have what the engine manufacturer wants you to do with it every season. If you don't have a manual, most manufacturers have owners manuals on the internet now.

Seth
One more thing I think it might help. Lubercate before you spray. The reason why is because most of the bearing on the machine are sealed high speed bearings and if you grease them it helps mostly to keep water out. and not to lubercate. but i would spray wd-40 on the linkages and use fuel stabilizer

LawnBoy89
11-16-2004, 05:41 PM
Where can I get me some fuel stabalizer, and is there anyspecial type that I need? I will be using it on a Ferris 48''.

nriddle77
11-16-2004, 06:27 PM
Where can I get me some fuel stabalizer, and is there anyspecial type that I need? I will be using it on a Ferris 48''.

Home Depot, Wal-Mart, or most auto parts stores carry fuel stabalizer.

Wolfie's L&L
11-16-2004, 07:18 PM
Thanks for the responses guys. I bought this mower off of my grandfather in the spring, and he didnt have the manual to it. I may get one offline here or if I cant find one, I'll run down to the local JD shop and see if they have it.

Is there any certain brand of fuel stabilizer, like Sta-Bil or STP brand that you guys recommend?


Jason

sethsodsquad
11-16-2004, 08:46 PM
What model of JD do you have? I'd be able to get a manual for you if it isn't too old. I use Sta-Bil for my fuel stabilizer. There really isn't that much difference in all of them - they all do the job well. (What I've experienced).

Seth

Wolfie's L&L
11-17-2004, 08:33 PM
Seth- JD JS63 with front caster wheels. 6.75 HP Kawi.

Jason

chief5139
11-18-2004, 11:33 AM
I use Briggs And Stratton stabilizer

sethsodsquad
11-18-2004, 04:35 PM
I don't know your pin number, but here is the place where you can see the manual for all ranges of pin numbers.
http://www.deere.com/en_US/ProductCatalog/HO/servlet/ProdCatProduct?pNbr=0034GX1&tM=HO&userAction=manualsRequest

I believe the engine on yours is a Briggs and Stratton Intek 6.75hp. JD doesn't put a Kawasaki 6.75 hp engine on their JS63's since it's a homeowner model. Plus, Kawasaki only makes a 6 hp engine. I know that mower manufacturers add a little hp to what Kawasaki really rates their engines at though.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Seth

Wolfie's L&L
11-19-2004, 09:21 PM
I went to the site and for some reason it wouldnt download. Ill just run down quick and get one at the JD dealer.

Jason

sethsodsquad
11-20-2004, 01:16 AM
It shouldn't have "downloaded" just only opened another browser window.

Seth

Wolfie's L&L
12-22-2004, 06:40 PM
Winterizing all got done today, over a course of about 3 weeks.

Replaced plug, air filter, sharpened blade, and lubricated and cleaned really well. Also put fuel stablizer in today as the final step.

I'm already thinking about spring!

Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions!

Jason

sethsodsquad
12-22-2004, 11:32 PM
Glad to help.

Seth