View Full Version : Watertight wire nuts?

12-04-2004, 07:27 AM
What brand do you guys use and are you satisfied with the performance? I'm getting tried of the wire nut not "Grabbing" and all the silicone coming out and throwing them away. Thanks

12-04-2004, 09:58 AM
If you are using King Connectors, you need to make sure that the wires are twisted together, and then trimmed off so that they are the same length, and don't over tighten them as they have plastic threads. And don't expose more than 1/2" of wire.

Wade Connectors use Scotch wire nuts with metal spring threads. Twist them on the wire and then insert into the grease filled case, lay the wires out to the sides, and snap the cover closed.

Or do like some of my more progressive competitors and twist the wires together, wrap them with a piece of electrical tape, and dip thom in blue potting compound. I love these guys. Makes for good amount of service calls.


Critical Care
12-04-2004, 12:22 PM
With the silicone filled wire nuts - as well as with dry ones - if they're too big, they will slip. I think the tendency is to get them a bit too large for some reason. You only need larger ones for connecting the bundle of ground wires together.

I've found that if I have a problem, I can generally make things work by twisting the wires together, folding this bundle back upon itself, and then reinserting into the wire nut. Of course, the right tools and right parts make less work, eh?

I wonder if anyone ever tried filling dry wire nuts with Vasoline?

12-04-2004, 02:35 PM
In a pinch, you can take a short piece of wire and twist it into the bundle to build up a little bulk. Especially when the previous installer used 18ga or less wire on the install.

Less than 18ga? Yes, I have seen systems wired with thermostat wire which is 22ga and this was done by professional irrigator's!


12-04-2004, 04:15 PM
I've found some made by 3M, they have 3 inlet holes for up to 3 wires, or as many as you can fit. They are clear as to make sure you have the wires all the way in. Then once wires are fitted, use a pair of pliers and clamp down the metal tooth. The tooth cuts through insulation of wire, so you don't even have to strip the wires. Very quick installation and never had a problem with them not making a connection or coming loose.

I get mine at the local sprinkler supply warehouse, can't find them anywhere else.

About the same price as wire nuts too.

12-04-2004, 06:52 PM
We have great luck with DRYCON wire nuts- Just be sure to use the right size for the size wire or number of wires you twisting

12-05-2004, 06:09 PM
the king blazing connectors rock

i used to use the 3 M but the king's are way better

12-05-2004, 06:09 PM
We use Harmony Products (TKHP) wire connectors with success. We have also used DBY's with success also. Have not had any problems with either. We used to use the 3M connectors that cleancutccl mentioned but they are water resistant and not waterproof and have had to replace several.

12-08-2004, 10:54 PM
the 3 m's we usw are water proof.
they have the yellow wire nut, and a tube filled with grease that's anout 3" long.
you twist the nut on , push down into the grease, and the nut is a few inched down in the grease. then flip the cap down.........

12-12-2004, 12:46 PM
I've found some made by 3M, they have 3 inlet holes for up to 3 wires, or as many as you can fit. They are clear as to make sure you have the wires all the way in.

We use the same 3M wire nuts and are extremely pleased...much easier to work with than wire nuts we have found. VERY tight secure connection. We actually found someone selling them on eBay last winter. We bought 2,000 connectors for $150. Works out to be about 7 cents per connector.

12-14-2004, 07:12 PM
we also use 3m's for wiring. They work great and always connect. Check them out, its well worth it.

12-16-2004, 11:41 AM
I used to use a two-part connector brand that I think was called Penntite, where you filled a cap with a blue goop that hardened. Then a similar two-part connector that was prefilled... not as good, water got in. The other trouble with the two-part was there was only 3 holes for wires, and #16 wires were pushing it.

Then I used 3M DBYs. They are messy, and the clear ones are not intended for above ground use where they degrade in sunlight, but are otherwise OK. Their goop seems to be the most water repellant in my experience.

I tried the Harmony connectors, and I liked them for their smaller profile and UV resitance. The trouble I had was that the goop melted out and ran all over the place in a toolbox on a hot day, making them essentially useless.

For #18 wires I like the connector Kings now known as Dryconn, but I liked the ziplock bags they used to come in better. They make for easier access should you ever need to add a valve or change a solenoid, etc. Never re-use them though, unless maybe you can refill them with the same grease (lithium?) first.

Whatever connection I make I always leave a good length of extra wire, and tie off with a zip tie about 3in. back from my connection to relieve any strain from somebody pulling a wire.

For LV lighting I prefer to use Nightscaping Ace Connectors. They are simply the best, but also the most expensive.

Critical Care
12-16-2004, 01:32 PM
Just curious if anyone knows what the grease material is that is used for these connectors?

12-16-2004, 03:16 PM
Just curious if anyone knows what the grease material is that is used for these connectors?

Di-electric grease.