Driveway with Pavers?

[numbbrrr]

Hello,
I am about to put in a driveway with pavers. I've already tamped the dirt down and was about to add 5 inches of aggregate gravel down before an inch of sand....then add the pavers. The yard supposedly has a tendency to pool up with puddles after a hard rain. Somebody mentioned I should pour a layer of concrete before the pavers because cars are heavy and will spread the pavers. They also said i should be putting mortar between the pavers instead of sand as I had planned. Can anyone clarify on this ?
-Patrick

[treedoc1]

No concrete

No mortar

Installation instructions are available anywhere on the internet.

Google away.

[WhohasHelios?]

Concrete and mortars are brittle, and do not allow for much movement over time. Thus the best method of installing pavers is just like you stated:

Solid sub-grade > Compacted aggregate, (road base) > compacted sand and surround your perimeters with whatever paver edging is recommended by your supplier > Tamp your laid bricks while grouting.

You want to have that base as described for two reasons, one is drainage and one is flexibility over time.

You also want to use sand, ideally polymeric sand as your grout between the bricks for the same reasons.

It sounds like you knew what you were doing to begin with, but if you would like more info, check out this site: http://www.unilock.com/Home.asp?UserType=Contractor&Region=8

Reuben

[promower]

I thought driveways needed 12" of aggregate?

[paponte]

I thought driveways needed 12" of aggregate?

Alot will argue that you can get away with only 6". I am however with you 100% promower. We DO NOT install a driveway unless we use 10"-12" of aggregate, and also use geogrid under the aggrigate in soils containing alot of clay or sand.

As far as the mortar or cement, just a wase of time if you ask me. If you are that converned with shifting, I would either use more aggregate or lay a pad of asphalt ontop of the aggregate. :)

[YardPro]

the depth of the base really depends on what sort of traffic will be on it.

[numbbrrr]

So if i was to say use only 6 inches of aggregate, should the dirt base below be sloping downward to create runoff/drainage? or could I get away with just sloping the aggregate itself? The final product (driveway/pavers) needs to have a downward slope due to the fact that the front yard has a tendency to not drain in heavy storms. Or should I not take the easy way out and excavate the actual dirt at a slant to promote drainage etc. Nice active forum here...I'm headed to google now.
Thanks,
-Patrick

[kris]

Do a search on this site and you will find Plenty of discussion on this.

[scraper69]

Alot will argue that you can get away with only 6". I am however with you 100% promower. We DO NOT install a driveway unless we use 10"-12" of aggregate, and also use geogrid under the aggrigate in soils containing alot of clay or sand.

As far as the mortar or cement, just a wase of time if you ask me. If you are that converned with shifting, I would either use more aggregate or lay a pad of asphalt ontop of the aggregate. :)


This is the only way to do it right. and compact every 3 inches

[SOMM]

do any of you paver installers do snow plowing?

anyone know how well pavers hold up to steel bladed snowplows after a few seasons?

[mickpeg]

I agree with those who recommend 10 - 12" of aggregate. Especially in an area like ours with lots of cold weather. As an addition, how and what $ amount are you charging for your paver jobs? By the square foot, time and material, any other ways.????
Thanks
Mickpeg

[earthtool]

There are some general "minimum" base thickness, (after compaction to 98% proctor), measured by a civ engineering firm. The guidelines that apply to this ap would be at least 12" (300 mm) of road base compacted in two to three inch lifts using a vib plate compactor 5000# min. 2,000-6,000 Hz.
With poorly drained native soil you can not afford to not take the extra time and engineering to make sure your base is solid and well drained.

As far as pricing your job..........how much do you pay for.........
worker comp
lib insurance
office expenses
labor cost
depreciation
education and training
bad debts
downtime equipment
equipment rental
vehicle expenses
over head
profit
edging
geo fabric materials as a whole

If you price by the sq foot your days are numbered.
Sad but true business is just that.

Hope that helps.