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philk17088
02-17-2005, 10:13 PM
I bought a 92 F-350 today for a 2nd spray truck.It has a Reading classic utility body on it in good shape.Does the utlity body have any value?
Whats a reasonable price for a used bed or a new flat bed for this truck?

olderthandirt
02-17-2005, 10:20 PM
Good used bed with tail gates on and only needing paint sell for around $550 here. You could probably trade the utility body even up for a reg bed as they seem to have more value but the middle man will want to make his share on it.

Mac

philk17088
02-17-2005, 10:29 PM
Thanks Mac.

LAWNPRO2
02-18-2005, 12:22 AM
Hi philk
I got a new truck trader today. this guy is selling a brand new
8ft flat bed for $750 locks nice hear is the ## (724)845-1618 ask
for jerry or jay. :waving:

philk17088
02-18-2005, 10:13 AM
Hi philk
I got a new truck trader today. this guy is selling a brand new
8ft flat bed for $750 locks nice hear is the ## (724)845-1618 ask
for jerry or jay. :waving:
Thanks Lawn Pro.

Any quirks on a 92 F-350 5.4 gasser I should know about? I'm having a little bit of buy remorse. Seems to good of a deal to be right.

Smalltimer1
02-18-2005, 11:48 AM
Thanks Lawn Pro.

Any quirks on a 92 F-350 5.4 gasser I should know about? I'm having a little bit of buy remorse. Seems to good of a deal to be right.

'92 F-350's didn't have the 5.4L......they had the 5.8L. If you start to have fuel system problems the FIRST thing you should check is the Fuel Pressure Regulator. They are usually the culprit of Ford multiport EFI troubles. Also I'd change the fuel filter right off, the injectors do not like any trash in the lines. I had to replace 3 injectors in mine last summer.

A truck in that range would go for 6000-7000 around here depending on mileage and condition.

The utility body would bring $1500 by itself around here.

philk17088
02-18-2005, 02:07 PM
180k miles on it. It runs very well It needs brakes all around the guy bought a new F-250 and didn't trade it. Tranny seems good, motor is quiet. No leaks other than the normal valve cover leak. $900

Smalltimer1
02-18-2005, 04:42 PM
180k miles on it. It runs very well It needs brakes all around the guy bought a new F-250 and didn't trade it. Tranny seems good, motor is quiet. No leaks other than the normal valve cover leak. $900


OK, with 180,000 I'd shoot for $5500 if I were you.

What's the $900 for?

When you replace the valve cover gasket, use a rubber gasket instead of cork. Cork is a very poor gasket maker.

philk17088
02-18-2005, 04:47 PM
$900 for the truck.
HE had advertised it for $1800 and got zero calls

olderthandirt
02-18-2005, 06:51 PM
Well if you don't want it tell me where its at, I'll grab it for $900

Mac

Smalltimer1
02-18-2005, 07:34 PM
That's a steal!

philk17088
02-18-2005, 07:40 PM
Picking it up monday evening. May have alreadyfound a decent bed for it.
Now for the hard, part prepping for painting to match the rest of the fleet! :realmad:

LAWNPRO2
02-19-2005, 02:07 AM
Hi Philk
What city are you in? I am in Pa. Did you call about that bed? :waving:

philk17088
02-22-2005, 10:36 PM
Got the truck tonight...
Check engine light came on... Low coolant level...Heater blows cold air...
Up and down shifting on flat level road...
Stopped and addded water, shifting problem stopped,check engine light went off heater still blows cold Temp guage is on the high side of the normal range...
Man, I hope this works out! ;)
Oh yeah and it smells like pi$$ under the hood!
Maybe a rodent problem? :realmad:

Smalltimer1
02-23-2005, 12:47 AM
Let's see some pics.

The coolant would trigger the check engine light.....sounds like your heater core might be shot if your heater doesn't work and you lose coolant. Did you check your tranny fluid level? I'd have that flushed and filter and fluid changed immediately. The low coolant level could explain why the temp gauge read high.

The odor that you smell is usually evidence that the truck sat for a while (i.e. 6 months or more), usually a fluid or something that has sat and gone stagnant.

olderthandirt
02-23-2005, 02:06 AM
1st put a new thermostat in it, the easiest and cheapest fix. If its not the problem would have probably needed one soon anyway.But that will make it run hot and blow cold air

Mac

moneyman
02-23-2005, 02:29 AM
If after changing the stat does not fix the heater, take off the heather core lines. Now with a garden hose with a small nozzle and spray the heather core lines. If you can let it sit for about 5 minutes in each hole (inlet & outlest)

I did this on my 89chevy 2500 and it got the heater working great !

As for the tranny change the fluid asap, my truck had a shidder and I swapped fluid and it went away. Im going to do it again, beucase it still looks brown and the shudder is kinda coming back.

All the other stuff i dont know what to tell you.

philk17088
02-23-2005, 08:33 AM
I'm going to flush everything today. In the daylight I now found some whitish greasy crap around the rad cap and in the neck of the rad.
I'm hoping I don't have a blown head gasket.
Engine runs smooth and there is no steam in the exhaust.
Called the guy back and the rad is only 15 months old.

FrankenScagMachines
02-23-2005, 09:09 PM
Change engine oil (this won't fix any of your problems its just something you do when you get a new truck).
Change tranny oil and filter.
Change fuel filter- easy to do on these trucks.
Change air and breather filter- easy to do.
Drain and flush radiator- easy to do, doesn't cost a ton, refill with new properly mixed fluid, don't reuse what you had and don't use just water or just antifreeze. Good way to ruin things.
As said, thermostat may be culprit of some of those problems.
If the heater core is bad, no biggie. Costs $18 at Advance Auto Parts, and takes like 15 minutes to change (may take you half hour having never done it, i've done it twice in two different Fords i've owned).
Is it an automatic overdrive tranny? If so, that is the E4OD, and does not have a reputation for bein heavy duty. If hauling/pulling a heavy load, it is best to turn off the OverDrive feature, as the OverDrive in it is light duty and can get torn up if pulling or hauling a lot of weight. I'm not trying to scare you, we have a '92 Ford 1 ton van w/206k original miles on 5.8 engine and E4OD tranny, never a single problem with either, and engine does not burn oil or even leak any! I did have a '90 F250 w/5.8 with almost 200k miles that leaked, but it had been ran hard most of its life, but never pulled. Our van has done minimal towing, and only light weights at that.

As to beds- this summer I sold a 8x12' flatbed in good shape with a headache rack and good lumber, little rust, for $300. It was off of a F350 long wheelbase.

Good luck with it, don't lose hope yet... and that was a good buy!
Eric

philk17088
02-23-2005, 09:38 PM
Things are looking up.
Thermo and cap are bad and that fixed it. A vacuum line was off and throttle sensor was getting mixed signals? was causing the shifting back and forth.
Needs brakes all around and 2 front brake hoses. Everything else is good.

Anybody have the secret to getting the plug out of the Dana rear? I have been spraying it and trying gently, the thing will strip out in a heartbeat if you force it.

philk17088
02-23-2005, 09:42 PM
oh and I found the mouse nest!
They had taken that gray sound proofing wool and had madea nest down next to the air cleaner box. They also crapped in the glove box!

Smalltimer1
02-23-2005, 10:18 PM
Change engine oil (this won't fix any of your problems its just something you do when you get a new truck).
Change tranny oil and filter.
Change fuel filter- easy to do on these trucks.
Change air and breather filter- easy to do.
Drain and flush radiator- easy to do, doesn't cost a ton, refill with new properly mixed fluid, don't reuse what you had and don't use just water or just antifreeze. Good way to ruin things.
As said, thermostat may be culprit of some of those problems.
If the heater core is bad, no biggie. Costs $18 at Advance Auto Parts, and takes like 15 minutes to change (may take you half hour having never done it, i've done it twice in two different Fords i've owned).
Is it an automatic overdrive tranny? If so, that is the E4OD, and does not have a reputation for bein heavy duty. If hauling/pulling a heavy load, it is best to turn off the OverDrive feature, as the OverDrive in it is light duty and can get torn up if pulling or hauling a lot of weight. I'm not trying to scare you, we have a '92 Ford 1 ton van w/206k original miles on 5.8 engine and E4OD tranny, never a single problem with either, and engine does not burn oil or even leak any! I did have a '90 F250 w/5.8 with almost 200k miles that leaked, but it had been ran hard most of its life, but never pulled. Our van has done minimal towing, and only light weights at that.

As to beds- this summer I sold a 8x12' flatbed in good shape with a headache rack and good lumber, little rust, for $300. It was off of a F350 long wheelbase.

Good luck with it, don't lose hope yet... and that was a good buy!
Eric


The E40D is fine when behind gas engines.....thats what it was designed for. When it is behind the diesels (7.3L IDI/IDIT/PSD) is when it has the problems, it has nothing to do with the OD, the tranny does not pump fluid in reverse which is what does the damage. Heater core will take more than 15 minutes, it will take a couple of hours, it took 6 hours to change the one in my father's Silverado, of course GM has no clue on where to properly locate a heater core anyway. Plus you'll have to flush the radiator as well, and if I remember correctly from the manual the rad. takes 18 or 19 qts.

philk17088
02-24-2005, 12:08 AM
Thanks for the help guys!

philk17088
03-07-2005, 03:01 PM
Got the truck inspected, took brakes all around, thermo and cap. Cooingsystem is good now Got it home fine now today its throwing a low rpm coughing/stalling fit. sometimes it stays up on high idle and then sometimes when it comes off high idle it stalls. It seems to jump back and forth between regular idle and high idle. Oh, and the check engine light comes on and goes off randomly.
Any thoughts what to look at first? I'm thinking a sensor of some sort maybe caausing it.