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SlimJim Z71
02-04-2001, 12:45 PM
My wife and I bought our first house about a year-and-a-halfd ago. The lawn looked horrible when we first moved in. After a few fertilizer treatments (Scotts Turfbuilder w/Insect Control, Weed Control) it looks better. But... I seems like there are a bunch of bare spots that just will not grow grass (no, not under trees), and I also seem to have several different types of grass. One of which looks like crabgrass, but it's not. Is there a way I can even all of this out without tilling my whole lawn, and starting over? I am planning on aerating this spring, but I don't really want all the cores laying all over my yard. Can I just use those "tine" ones that just kind of stab the ground? Thanks for the help guys!

-Tim

1MajorTom
02-04-2001, 01:49 PM
Tim,

You did not mention how large your yard is, but in all honesty, this answer is not what you probably want to hear. It is to till the whole yard up and then reseed.


We were in the same boat with you. Our yard was mess. I mean it was awful. After removing a rotting mullberry tree, we decided that it simply would be easier to start all over, than to try and look for a quick fix.

We used PennFine grass seed developed by Penn State University which is in our area and it came up beautiful. Last year we got lots of compliments on our yard, and we had great looking grass by the end of May.

Sometimes the quickest fix isn't all the best.


Jodi

SlimJim Z71
02-04-2001, 02:52 PM
Ughhh.

That's not good. My lot is pretty small. It's about 50' x 150', with a 900sq.ft. house and a 2-car garage on it. I don't have a whole lot of yard, but it's sufficient. I really didn't want to till up the whole thing and start over, but if that's what's needed, then that's what I'll do. Maybe I'll just do the front to start with, since that's the smaller section.

Ya think I should try aerating it first?

-Tim

awm
02-04-2001, 04:11 PM
You can use the roundup method if you really do each phase
by the book.Its in there info with purchase. Works
good but you got to do it right.It also helps spring
plantings hold out during heat of summer.

GroundKprs
02-04-2001, 04:31 PM
A number of variables to consider to decide the simplest course. Can you post a few pictures? We could make better recommendations then. Tilling is not necessary unless the surface is relatively uneven - pock marked like the roads now :).

SlimJim Z71
02-04-2001, 06:09 PM
The surface is relatively uneven, but I was thinking of renting one of those rollers that you fill with water right after all the snow melts. The ground should be soft enough to be able to level it out some. After I do that, I was going to aerate it, then fertilize.

-Tim

65hoss
02-04-2001, 06:09 PM
Sounds like you need to overseed. The cores from aerating go away pretty quickly, and its a lot easier than tilling up the entire lawn. The last thing you should be worrying about is the cores. Overseed with the type of seed that works best in you area. If you talking about some bare spots in your lawn, that is no reason to start over.

If you have some compost around, mix some seed into it and spread it around the areas and start watering it.

SlimJim Z71
02-04-2001, 08:49 PM
Okay, I've heard that saying before... "overseed".

What does that mean? Or is that what you were talking about, mixing the seed in with compost and watering it?

Thanks guys for all your help!

-Tim

awm
02-04-2001, 10:56 PM
OVER SEEDING IS JUST PLANTING OVER EXISTING GRASS

65hoss
02-05-2001, 02:13 AM
All that is need for seed to germinate is contact with the soil. You can spread seed out over soil and it will germinate fairly quickly. When you seed, the most important thing is water. You need to water lightly often. Best is twice a day, but once a day is a must. You contine watering until the plant gets a decent root system. I did this to a 10x10 bare spot under a 35 yr old oak tree in my front yard this past fall. I now have a very thick stand of fescue.

Total price is about $10.

turfquip
02-05-2001, 09:38 AM
Don't till it. You'll expose more weed seeds than you knew existed. The first step is to identify the reason for the bare spots. Here's one possible explanation...

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150 pounders like this can ruin 12 square feet of lawn surface and I've seen lawns riddled with them.
<BR>

Charles
02-05-2001, 11:02 AM
Spike areate it instead of core. Then overseed. Tilling up an established yard can cause it to become too fluffy(mushy). And all the seeds make not grow anyway so you then be stuck with bare spots again. Overseed, fertalize and/or lime/ and water every year until you get the look you want. Another way to do it if there is not too many bare spots or it is a small yard. Hand steel rake the bare spots and get seed/topsoil already mixed and hand throw it out on the bare spots. Make sure it is the same type of the surrounding grass.

Eric ELM
02-09-2001, 01:04 PM
Some weekend towards the end of April send me an email with your address and I'll stop up with either a core or spike or both aerators and I'll give you a hand. This will be a good way for us to finally meet. :)
Just don't put any premergents down or the seed won't grow.

1MajorTom
02-09-2001, 01:46 PM
I don't know Eric. You better watch making those offers.
Pretty soon, you'll have people all over the U.S. calling
you wanting your expertise hoping that you will assist them
in making their yards look as good as the ones on your website. ;)

SlimJim Z71
02-10-2001, 08:16 AM
Thanks Eric, I appreciate the offer. Maybe that's why I couldn't get anything to grow last year, because I put a Pre-emergent down. I even tried using that stuff that feels like insulation, with the grass seed and fertilizer all in one. Couldn't even get that to grow. I'll get in touch with you as soon as the weather breaks. Thanks to everyone for their help!!!

-Tim

kutnkru
02-10-2001, 02:16 PM
Try using these calculations to estimate the cost of materials for the job on top of what a rental firm will charge you for an aerator and tiller. I would also see if you dont have some leads to a tiller thats pulled by atractor. I did my parents 2 yrs ago and I subbed this portion out.

For new installs we use:
6 lbs. of seed per m/sf
5 lbs. of pelletized lime per m/sf
5 lbs. of strter fertilizer per m/sf

If its in the budget becxause its your OWN lawn you could consider using peart moss instaed of straw at the rate of 3.8cf/150 sf of turf area.

Hope this helps.
Kris

jay
02-10-2001, 04:19 PM
If you got a professional in your area like erick here than set something up with him. You'll probaly save your self money in the long run and have a much better looking yard to show for it. We can help you with a lot of different things in this forum but when it comes down to something like this you just have to see it to know truthfully what to do. Theres to many variables to cover without actually being at the site.

lawman
02-13-2001, 04:56 PM
put some seed down then some starter fert. and top it off with leafgro or compro. you may even want to airate frist.

allabout
02-15-2001, 09:09 PM
Do NOT till up your yard in the spring you can power rake & then over-seed with GOOD seed do not put down the pre M this yr.Then over-seed 8 weeks later. if you do not like the cores from aerating use a spiker. you can get good seed @ olsen's in Barrington on pepper rd.

swing blade
03-04-2001, 11:30 PM
First, where do you live. maybe one of us can stop by and take a real good look at it. if not i would do the following: I agree with charles and turfquip: do not till it. if the yard is slooped, you can run the risk of washing away your topsoil. I would test the PH level in your soil, or take a sample to a local nursery and have them test it. Then, if nothing is wrong, I would overseed it heavily, then thrw straw over the newly seeded lawn, but not too thick!!! 2 bales should do your entire yard. water it for about an hour every other day depending on the weather, and see what happens. once the seed germinates, or begins to grow, weait 2 weeks and put down a weed & feed. this will fertilize the soil and grass, and kill some of the weeds. Good luck!

Kansas Turf Man
03-05-2001, 02:05 AM
My opinion is a little swayed due to the fact that I own and operate a sod farm, but I would tear it out and sod it. Expensive in the short run. But it is well worth the time and money in the long run. Just remember Landscaping can have up to a 200% return on your investment. Seed takes alot of time and care. Sod is easy. Learn mor at my site. Clickon the little red house at the bottom of my post.

Good luck on whatever you decide. :)

joshua
03-08-2001, 01:17 PM
my opinion is to thatch it and over seed it, if that doesn't work get a rake and clean the bare spots till the dirt shows, then take some dish soap mix it in water and apply to that area, it will break down the soil and anything bad that is causing grass not to grow, the rest after that you should know.