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George777
02-07-2001, 08:08 PM
Need some advice on aeration. I'm trying to figure if it is best to apply fert and then aerate. I live in the south and also wonder when is the best times to aerate. I'm thinking in late march & September.
I'm also nervous about infesting someones turf with weeds. If I notice weeds in the turf should I wait to aerate?
thank you

Evan528
02-07-2001, 08:16 PM
Im not firmiliar with souther grasses so i cant anser when the best time to aerate down is. I can tell you that if the lawn has a good amount a weeds it would be a good i dea to spray a broad leaf herbicide to take care of the weeds beofre aerating. Once the weeds are dead you can aerate, over seed and put down a starter fertilizer. This way the seed will fill in all the areas that were infested by weeds.

kutnkru
02-07-2001, 08:17 PM
We always aerate and power rake the lawns prior to the first application of pre-emergents in the spring. We usually rotate aerations one year and p-r's the next.

As far as aeration in the early fall I would recommend sometime between the middle of september and the middle of october. Personally I prefer to do my overseeding this time of year.

If you notice weeds in the turf I would "highly recommend" to your clients the springtime aearations so that whatever program you are using will quickly be reached and absorbed by the rootzone.

Hope this helps.
Kris

George777
02-07-2001, 08:29 PM
I'm not lisenced to apply pre/post emergence yet, I'm told that I can apply fert. If fact when I got my business lisence I was told I can apply anything that a customer could purchase at home depot, lowes or any store. I must admit I find this hard to believe.
i have a customer who wants his lawn aerated in March. I'm hoping he does not have a problem with weeds. I would hate to infest his lawn.

kutnkru
02-07-2001, 08:39 PM
I have heard thru the grapevine that if you are applying it for the customer and not being compensated for your time its okay. The catch seems to be it has to be done when your not there for mowing or to perform any services you are compensated for.

I would advise against this practice. You are opening up a can of worms that is not worth the headaches associated with the State/DEC.

As a contactor to meet the needs of your clients you do have the right to sub-contract this work out. I strongly believe that it is in both parties best interests for you to get your certification.

We have elinmanted the finger pointing of who's done what wrong the fert co. or the mowing crews this way. Customers will also like knowinbg that they are dealing with a "one-stop-shop".

Just my .02
Kris

Davis TLC
02-07-2001, 08:46 PM
George, if you are worried about transferring weed seeds from other lawns, just be sure to clean your equipment between jobs. Sometimes lawns become weed infested because the ground is too tight for the grass to compete with the weeds. Aerating will help the lawn to get back to a healthy balance. You can aerate in the spring in the South, but you can also do it in the fall. If you do it in the fall be sure to sell an overseeding as a extra job, this way you will improve the lawn by thickening it up with new healthy grass.

I do the aerating and fertilizing usually on the same day. I am there already to do one job, the fertilizing takes less time than the aerating.

George777
02-07-2001, 08:55 PM
thank you all for your input. Kris, I think your right. I've got the books from my extension office and the next test in in March. It seems like this test to apply herb is pretty tough.
Any tips on how to study for that rascal?

Greenman2ooo
02-07-2001, 08:56 PM
George-

Someone is giving you bad information. Contact your local department of agriculture<--- a federal agency. Fertilizers are regulated by the federal government, contrary to popular belief. It is against federal law to apply even fertilizers if it is done FOR HIRE. That means you will get your butt fined if you are caught doing so.

If you are unwilling to spend the small amount of time it takes to get certified, you really should just stick with what you already do. That's the nice way of saying it. :) I don't want you to think I'm hounding you, I just want to make sure you don't let someone mislead you into thinking something that could cost you thousands of dollars is "alright."

I like the fact you said you are not licensed, "yet!" Good luck!

kutnkru
02-07-2001, 09:01 PM
I basically studied a chapter a night and then took a couple of nights off. Then I went back thru it again and again in this fashion. However if you are like my friend she studied the weekend before by reading thru it twice and then aced the test with a friggin 98. She makes me nautious - LOL. I hate people who can retain vast knowledge at the drop of a hat.

Kris

Garry
02-07-2001, 09:36 PM
By far the most important tool the landscape specialist can own is his knowledge of how and why, he does what he does. Complete understanding of the products you use is now your *job*. We, the Licenced pesticide community pay fees, insurance, and other expences to maintain our *privilege*. If you want to play this game, remember, it takes some money to make some money.


G. William Lamar

Lamar Landscape Science & Treatments Inc.

Davis TLC
02-07-2001, 09:54 PM
George, the best way to find out what you need a license for is to contact your state Department of Agriculture. They can clear up what your state requires you to have a license for. One simple way to tell is if the material in question has an EPA regualtion number on it, then you must be licensed to apply it.

Here is the link to the Alabama Dept. of Agri. http://agri-ind.state.al.us/ give them a call to be sure.

guntruck
02-07-2001, 10:25 PM
This qoute came directly from our dpt of agriculture here in Md., clearly stating no need for a liscence for fert only. My advice is what the others say........check with your dpt of agriculture it may be different/


Mr. Pasko, licensing is not required for the use of fertilizers only. However, if you are using a weed & feed product, one is needed as well as to apply any other weed killer, insecticide or fungicide.


Rich

Greenman2ooo
02-07-2001, 10:44 PM
I checked my book. When I was certified, I was told wrong. There is NOTHING that covers applying fertilizer under federal law. So, if your state doesn't restrict it, you can apply it. I found out that it is legal in Illinois to apply fertilizer for hire, which contradicts the initial information I was given.

However, you must be licensed for pesticides, which includes weed control because that is restricted by federal law. That applies no matter what state you are in if you are in the U.S.

HOMER
02-07-2001, 11:21 PM
George,

It is legal to apply fertilizer in our great State of Alabama. It is illegal to apply anything with a herbicide in it and this includes putting out ant poison on a fire ant mound, and of course roundup. No rules against fertilizing and this came from Montgomery.

yardsmith
02-08-2001, 12:38 AM
Right on Garry!
Too many hillbillies around here think you can hop in the pickup, throw a push mower in the bed & 'yer' a lawn service'. Tha same bunch go to Home Depot & drop fert on customer's lawns without a clue as to what's in it or why it works. That's dangerous.
Here in Ohio you do not have to be licensed to apply FERTILIZER ONLY. Now if you have a weed-n-feed, the 'weed' part is a herbicide, & that means license time, baby.
You even have to have a license for Roundup at Wal Mart, if you put it on someone else's lawn.
I like the idea of "pay to play" privilege. Keeps it above board.

KirbysLawn
02-08-2001, 08:52 AM
Originally posted by George777
Need some advice on aeration. I'm trying to figure if it is best to apply fert and then aerate. I live in the south and also wonder when is the best times to aerate. I'm thinking in late march & September.
I'm also nervous about infesting someones turf with weeds. If I notice weeds in the turf should I wait to aerate?
thank you

You can aerate any time you wish. I aerate my lawn during the summer and the first week of September when I overseed. As far as the order I aerate first, then apply fertilizer.

What do you mean by infesting the turf with weeds?? I see nothing about seeding, did you have that in mind also? If so, buy a quality seed and read the label on weed seed content.

What type of grass seed? Cool or warm season, that will determine when it's best to sew.

Acute Cut
02-08-2001, 06:45 PM
Aeration/overseeding:
The best time to seed for warm season turfgrasses is when the temp is 70-95 degrees. Late spring and early summer would be the best time for you then to overseed. This will allow for the maximum amount of growing/stabalizing time for the seeds.

Early spring should be avoided due to low soil temps will limit the germination and growth of the grass. Also it will have to deal with weed competition.

Late summer or fall will decrease the chance of seedling survival due to the winter temps.

that is if you are going to seed though. Not sure for the aeration itself. I would guess that it would be at the same time so you can get the fert and seed-soil contact at it's highest.

Hope this helps.
Acute Cut

kutnkru
02-08-2001, 06:50 PM
We sell this service to our customers between mid-September and mid-October. The reason why we push to have this service rendered during this time is that you will have virtually eliminated the weed competition factor, and the lawns will have a great start for the following season.

Hope this helps.
Kris

George777
02-08-2001, 07:24 PM
IN my neck of the woods we have soild clay soil. I've been watching when we get a lot of rain, most lawns seem to look like a big puddle. i've never aerated before but I do see a need for it around here. I think it will be a matter of how well I can sell the benifits of aeration to the customers.

Thank all of you for sharing your expertise with me....

smburgess
02-08-2001, 07:30 PM
We always aerate, overseed and fertilize in the fall, tall-type fescue will germinate as long as the soil temp is above 70 degrees, with the milder fall temps the seed will germinate and over the winter develop it's root system. When the heat of the next summer comes it now has a established root system that is more heat and drought tolerate than grass seed sown in the spring. In the spring I'm putting down Pre-M and spraying broadleaf control, which would not let grass seed germinate anyway.