View Full Version : Small path question for the pros from a homewowner
03-16-2005, 09:32 AM
I need to put in a small path to access a detached garage. I'm imagining the size to be about 42"-48" wide and 60' long. I want to keep it somewhat "rustic" or "natural" in appearance, meaning that I don't want to make it all brick or pavers.
My idea was to frame the side of this path with either 4x4's or 4x6's with rebar driven into the ground and dig out the sod. I was going to put the weed block fabric on top of the soil and fill it with 3"4" of small pea gravel.
I'm also planning on spacing these pavers throughout the gravel. (they are available at the local Lowe's)
I want to lay them with ALOT more space between them than what is shown on the website.
My questions are;
1) is my base of just pea gravel going to be adequate?
2) do you think that if I double the amount of recommend square foot coverage by these it will give me enough gaps between the stone to show the pea gravel? (should I triple it)
03-16-2005, 05:13 PM
My experience is that you will get alot of freeze thaw damage with that much separation, but it may not matter if you are looking for a "rustic look". If it were me I would install a 4-5" base of modified stone, compact it, screed an inch of sand on it, place your stones and level as necessary, and fill in the cracks with your pea gravel. This method will provide a more solid surface and will probably be a little cheaper, because that much pea gravel can get expensive. Hope this helps.
03-17-2005, 08:46 AM
Will the modified stone base allow water to drain through it?
Part of the reason I was going to use pea gravel was so that water would drain through it and not create a "creek" between the 4x4or 4x6 wood edging.
03-17-2005, 10:06 AM
Unless you are using an eco-paver then you should try to get water to run off not drain through. Around here we have heavy clay soil and water does not drain easily. If you have a sandy or shale type soil then I suppose you can drain the water through. I just have a problem with letting water get to the foundation (base) of any hardscaping, because it will lift and heave your 4x4's.
03-26-2005, 02:25 PM
bore holes in the horizontally throughout the 4x4s this should help with the drainage there are many variations you could do with this pathway. you could get rid of the 4x4s all together and have grass inbetween the feildstones. its a very simple procedure. lay feildstone on grass wait a week the grass will die. dig out dead grass fill with 2" layer of gravel place stone on top. on a progect like this i would recommend staining the 4x4s throughly with fiberglass resin. this will make them water repellent for many years. i could send you the paver pack i email to all my clients this pack helps customers pick out various colors and styles. dont buy at lowes go to your brickyard it will be much cheaper
04-02-2005, 01:09 AM
For one thing those pavers look really fake if your going for a natural look I wouldent recommend them,
Also they are ment to be cemented in,they are too light weight and small to use in a free floating situation on top of pea.
They will move all over the place and could "skidd"out of place if you land on them in a quick paced walk(say your in a hurry to get the phone ringing or something)and be dangerous'
The wood edging material goes one way and. that's streight ahead.If you want a natural look go curving edges. Use the stone-in grass method suggested above or use real flagstone in larger pieces that are at least 2" to 3" thick,lay on compacted crushed rock with sand on that then fill the rest with pea..But don't set them on top of pea.
04-02-2005, 12:14 PM
Real stone will always look classier than the fake stuff. I do a lot of this sort of work, and the key to a good job is properly compacting the base. If you leave lots of space between the stones, plant some creeping thyme: it'll look really nice when it fills in.
Pea gravel is no good for a base..it will not compact... use a 3/4 crushed /granular A whatever they call it there.
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