<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title><![CDATA[LawnSite.com™ - Lawn Care & Landscaping Business Forum - Sports Field Management Forums]]></title>
		<link>http://www.lawnsite.com/</link>
		<description />
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Tue, 18 Jun 2013 22:53:38 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.lawnsite.com/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title><![CDATA[LawnSite.com™ - Lawn Care & Landscaping Business Forum - Sports Field Management Forums]]></title>
			<link>http://www.lawnsite.com/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Pitcher's Mound (my first)]]></title>
			<link>http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=242020&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jun 2013 02:47:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Craigs lawncare:

Sorry I did not see this sooner. The mound bricks I use come in 8-packs wrapped in heavy plastic. I get them on pallets from a distributor in northern Michigan called Tri-Turf. John Deere Landscapes, formerly LESCO, sometimes have them you can buy one at a time. They have several stores in MI. Some of the big sports equipment places on line offer them but you sure don't want to pay freight on these. Each package is around 65#.

If it's not too late and you want to drive to St. Joseph I can provide them, if you are interested.

After the pictures above were taken, I softened a few bricks in water in a 5-gallon pail, drained the water, mixed them up to a thick paste using a 1/2" drill motor and a drywall mud paddle. Then I troweled it over the bricks, forcing it into all the joints. The result was like a skim coat of plaster. My intent was to keep the infield dirt and Turface mix from finding its way into the cracks. I was trying to give the bricks time to fuse together before infield dirt settled in between them. It seems to have worked well on this and other mounds (and batters boxes).]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Craigs lawncare:<br />
<br />
Sorry I did not see this sooner. The mound bricks I use come in 8-packs wrapped in heavy plastic. I get them on pallets from a distributor in northern Michigan called Tri-Turf. John Deere Landscapes, formerly LESCO, sometimes have them you can buy one at a time. They have several stores in MI. Some of the big sports equipment places on line offer them but you sure don't want to pay freight on these. Each package is around 65#.<br />
<br />
If it's not too late and you want to drive to St. Joseph I can provide them, if you are interested.<br />
<br />
After the pictures above were taken, I softened a few bricks in water in a 5-gallon pail, drained the water, mixed them up to a thick paste using a 1/2&quot; drill motor and a drywall mud paddle. Then I troweled it over the bricks, forcing it into all the joints. The result was like a skim coat of plaster. My intent was to keep the infield dirt and Turface mix from finding its way into the cracks. I was trying to give the bricks time to fuse together before infield dirt settled in between them. It seems to have worked well on this and other mounds (and batters boxes).</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=144">Sports Field Management Forums</category>
			<dc:creator>foreplease</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=242020</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Gang  Mower ???</title>
			<link>http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=405944&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jun 2013 21:24:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>looking into getting a gang reel mower  ProMow  to do our new soccer fields any info will help  

  Thanks           (3 new full size fields)</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>looking into getting a gang reel mower  ProMow  to do our new soccer fields any info will help  <br />
<br />
  Thanks           (3 new full size fields)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=144">Sports Field Management Forums</category>
			<dc:creator>brown2501</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=405944</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Seeding Bermuda With Universal Aeravator</title>
			<link>http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=403876&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 30 May 2013 11:50:40 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[You're right. "Pyramid" bermuda seed settings are listed on my calibration sheet!  I'll test the recommended settings at my shop before heading to the field.  That Riviera seed is expensive so I want to get it right.  Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>You're right. &quot;Pyramid&quot; bermuda seed settings are listed on my calibration sheet!  I'll test the recommended settings at my shop before heading to the field.  That Riviera seed is expensive so I want to get it right.  Thanks</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.lawnsite.com/forumdisplay.php?f=144">Sports Field Management Forums</category>
			<dc:creator>HobieDude</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=403876</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
