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Old 09-15-2007, 01:04 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 10,091
Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post

As for the fert, should I NOT follow the recomendations of one of the TOP Hort/Arb/Forest/Turf Schools in the world? Why would they try and make me use things I dont need? I am not trying to be confrontational just trying to understand all this.

I am new to this fert/soil world. I will be taking the MA certified Arborist exam next month and I am trying to learn as much as possible. I guess my lawn is my research study.....
Not trying to be confrontational either My College Horticulture and Botany experience covered algae to angiosperm and was quite excellelent information IMO. However the professor would not discuss lawn/grass openly but would answer any question 'one on one' as requested. Unfortunately I didn't know, what I didn't know, so I didn't have an appropriate question to discuss with the professor.
Organic lawns pretty much equals low maintenance lawns. In my rural community there are weed free lawns that have never been tended to more than mowing and spring raking. (Just too simple?)
Have we over thought and over analysed the whole thing? Does the conventional wisdom of the university prove grandpa wrong about plant husbandry as it does grandma wrong about child rearing?
(As a future Arborist) : Grass seems to want N before winter, however trees, for example, do not want N for winter. N would interfere with the hardening off process in trees.
What would you recommend to boost the survival chances of a newly transplanted tree?
I Just moved a 20 foot maple by hand from a shady location in which it would not survive to the open area in front of the house. It seems normal "dry back" of leaves but is there a quick K to revitalize it in any way?
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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