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Old 09-19-2002, 07:28 AM
tremor tremor is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Stratford, CT
Posts: 1,476
Jay,

Old-schoolers can cause some confusion when their often tried & true methods conflict with modern recommendations. But think about this for a minute. If you applied 13-13-13 at 1lb N (or any other 1-1-1 ratio) right now, and then follwed it up with 46-0-0 urea at 1lb/N in 6-8 weeks, you'd have applied roughly a 2-1-1 ratio between labor day & dormancy for a total of about 2 lbs/N.

You'd also have delivered .5 lbs/P/M & 1lb/K/M

And that's what you want to do.

The other option is to just run a 4-1-2 ratio all year. And that's fine too.

Nitrogen (N) is the most used & volatile & leach prone elememt we need. So more is applied. Good selection of slow release type & content is important, but lengthy for this thread.

Phosphorous (P) lasts too long as it is, so very little is needed since very little is actually used by established turf.

Potash (K, potassium) is medium in it's leachability (depending on source) & will be needed in moderate amounts by turf.

Keep in mind too that P is expressed in an inaccurate way on commercial fert bags. So a 2-1-1 ratio (20-10-10 as an example) is REALLY a 4-1-2 or 20-5-10 as far as actual elements go.

To keep things simple, 20-10-10 all year would be fine. Of course this assumes you don't have any special needs that are borne out by a good soil test. Seeding, sandy soils, Ph issues, unusual drought or excessive moisture, & type of turf will all play a role in determining actual needs.

Does this make sense, or did I just make matters worse?

Steve
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