Originally Posted by underPSI
You put something back together wrong or something's reversed. There is no way you'd have to adjust anything after a throttle shaft swap. Besides, the difference between the two shafts is so minuscule that if any adjustment were required it would be a small one. The only obvious answer is something is backwards. Remove the air cleaner and look at the throttle plate when the throttle control is set to idle. Now move the throttle control to WOT and look at the throttle plate. What are the differences? Any? I'm guessing the throttle plate is fully open regardless of throttle control setting. If this is the case I'd check the linkage for binding somewhere near the governor. Did you use the correct linkage or are the two reversed (choke and throttle)?
Just trying to throw some ideas out there for you. My parts arrived today. Hopefully I'll get it on this weekend.
sorry, I just re-read your post and this popped out at me. I am inclined to believe a linkage is binding somewhere not allowing the throttle plate to close. I'd look closely at the governor.
I'll recheck the governor and cable for binding tomorrow.... Damn thing has a ton of power now though. Cut my back yard (wet grass) full speed as short as I could, didn't bog down any. I can tell from the way the blades spin up much faster that it's more powerful. Plus, if I push the levers full speed ahead too quickly when mowing, it will pop a wheelie now. I guess before, the blades tapped a little power from the hyrdos so that didn't used to happen, now they have more reserve power>?? lol More fun this way to drive now, can't wait till Monday when I go cut a bunch of different yards and vacant lots to see the difference. Once I figure out why my idle is so high, I'll post pictures and explain step by step what I did for others interested.