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Old 07-02-2011, 11:55 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pensacola, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karmascapes View Post
Sorry guys been busy the last few days;

So the latest on my issue is that fish seem to being doing well. No more deaths as of tonight. You'll be proud Tad b/c i haven't put any more chems into the pond since that round of peroxide. The water lettuce is beginning to grow a few more buds and surprisingly enough, my Brother in law had some of the Water Hyacinth plants i mentioned before. So i've got those from him to add to the collection. Still haven't cleaned it yet, the fish seem to be doing much better now, they are moving around more and eating well.

I do still have cloudy and dirty water look to the pond, but the fish are doing better. Any thoughts on that?

If i did decide to give the pond a good cleaning what about the idea of adding a garden hose in the pond to get the fish adjusted to the cooler water temp, and then after a bit, turn on the discharge valve from the filter so that the good comes in and the bad goes out... wax on, wax off

Thoughts
Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia) and Water Lettuce (Pistia), if growth can be controlled, can be very beneficial in an aquatic eco-system. Both plants, but more so Water Hyacinth, have the ability to utilize nitrogen as Ammonia, NitrIte and NitrAte. Water Hyacinth is extremely efficient in Nitrogen conversion and the effects of this can be fairly rapid. For this reason, it is used in some sewage treatment facilities for reducing levels of all forms of Nitrogen and for 'polishing' the water. Both plants are prolific growers, hence their classification as Invasive in many states and tropical/sub-tropical countries. It has also been found that Water Hyacinth has the ability to lower pH.

On the down side (besides the invasive potential), both plants, if not controlled, can: choke out any other vegetation, interfere with the transfer of gases at the water surface resulting in low Oxygen levels, provide a breeding place for certain mosquito species and clog filtration systems with pieces of broken roots caused by fish foraging.

The fact that your fish are more active and are feeding reinforces the premise that your initial problem was in the Nitrogen conversion cycle.

As to your pond cleaning scenario, your problem is going to be Chlorine or Chloramine in the tap water. There would be no way to control the effectiveness of a Dechlorinator using this cleaning procedure, plus you are actually only doing a water change and not removing any debris or organic sediment from the pond.
Clean the pond using normal procedures. After the pond has been cleaned, refilled (reserve enough capacity to be able to return the water in the fish holding unit) and dechlorinated, allow it to sit for a couple of hours before returning the fish and water in the holding unit. After this period of time, the temperature difference should be small enough to not cause any major stress problems in the fish.
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