Hi DJB, looks like you have a good plan, but. I wouldn't do anything without a soil test first. A minimum of N-P-K and pH requirements is important. Along with a chemical analysis, I typically get a sand, silt, clay analysis so I know what kind of soil I am dealing with. I use a soil lab called Spectrum Analytic. they can be reached at spectrumanalytic.com
Hi tcjim. Thank you very much for your thoughts. I neglected to say that I did get a basic soil fertility test taken earlier this year and the lab told me that we had no problems which stood out. I must say I am not experienced in reading the analysis myself. I did not have a sand, silt, clay analysis done but I do have the specs from what was supposedly installed 18 months ago.
Selection of a good quality topsoil is critical. If you can get a soil blended with either mushroom compost or at the least leaf compost you will be adding some organic matter along with the soil.
Do you think a blend is better than a rotation? We had discussed doing a yearly rotation of one time soil, one time compost, one time sand.
I had a guy once tell me. If you are using topsoil to fill holes and low spots on a field, use a soil very similar to the existing soil. If you fill holes with a topsoil that is too sandy you will end up with soft wet areas in the field when it rains because those sandy areas will hold water like a sponge.
That makes sense
On the other hand, if you are using the soil to smooth the field you should be using either soil with a sandy loam classification or loamy sand unless the existing soil is more sandy than that. These classifications are determined by the amount of sand, silt and clay in the soil.
Do you have any ideas off the top of your head what kind of ratios we're talking about? Or any resources to point me to? How thick would you apply it to smooth the field?
Topdressing with straight sand is a double edged sword. In theory, topdressing with sand will soften a tight soil and increase drainage. The flip side is that topdressing with too fine a sand will turn soil to concrete. I stay away from straight sand unless the objective is to change the qualities of the existing soil.
That makes sense. I'm not being asked to change the qualities of the soil at this point
Depending on the condition and quality of the field I might choose a mixture of bluegrass and tall fescue rather than a straight bluegrass blend. Not sure if tall fescue does well in your neck of the woods. It might be tough to get straight bluegrass established this time of year since my understanding is that bluegrass can take up to 30 days to germinate and that puts us in December. Banking on the seed overwintering and germinating in the spring is a crap shoot.
We had been planning to wait a few weeks and do it as a dormant seeding. This seems risky to you? Is the concern that the seed will "erode" away with melting snow? Does the slit seeding alleviate that concern? Yes tall fescue does grow here but my concern is that the turf was installed sod (straight Kentucky Blue) am reticent to introduce something else. Is this wise?
If the field is a really worn and abused field I might opt to use straight perennial rye. It germinates quickly and has the best early traffic tolerence. It would probably give the best germination rate for this time of year. Perennial rye color will not typically match a straight bluegrass field so it is important to consider all the options when making a decision on what seed to use.
The field is not terribly worn except the goal mouths. I think compaction is more of an issue. Because the two practice fields were done from seed and took too long to come in. This field has been used for everything including P.E. classes. It grows extremely slowly even in wet periods. Another company was contracted to do the fertilizing.
With all that being said, your list and order of procedures seems pretty good.
Rolling to take the frost out of the ground and rolling to smooth existing bumps are two different things. Personally I would depend on the topdressing to smooth the field. Rolling with a one ton roller "without" the vibration probably wouldn't't hurt and would help to set the seed if it is done at the end of the process. I wouldn't't go out of my way to do it unless they request it specifically. I once had a volunteer roll a soccer field I was maintaining with a Komatsu roller with the turf tires in the rear and about a seven foot wide X five foot high roller in the front. I thought he would destroy the field. Actually, all it did was smooth the grass clumps. the kids footprints actually went deeper that the roller. that was an important lesson for me.
Very Interesting. They have specifically requested rolling. You don't think rolling freshly topdressed turf would create a problem?
Thanks again for all the insight