View Single Post
Old 04-22-2012, 04:11 PM
steveparrott steveparrott is online now
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,113
Originally Posted by jana View Post
Or just dl the .pdf file from Cast here. It's been there for a while.
  • Without moving the camera, change the f-stop so the meter is at -1.5 for the second shot, then +1.5 for the third shot. If I'm trying to pull detail out of utter blackness, then I shoot a frame at +2.5.
I don't think the D3100 will do bracketed shots, at least I can't find it if so.
It's not automatic, you need to change the settings manually for each bracketed shot.

Also, I forgot to mention that when you move the camera to get a reading on the illuminated spot, then move it back to frame your shot, the meter reading in the viewfinder will change (its not pointed at the correct spot anymore). That's ok for the first shot because you set your exposure while aiming at the spot. For the next bracketed shots, however, you need to change the exposure without moving the camera (re-aiming on your target spot).

The way I do that is a little complicated to explain. An example: I aim at an illuminated spot and adjust exposure so the meter rests on the zero line. I then re-frame the picture the way I want it. I take my first shot. Now, I'm ready for the second shot. I look at where the meter reading is. Say it's at +1.0. I adjust shutter speed to reduce it by 1.5 = -0.5. My third shot will be 1.5 above 1.0 = +2.5.

Keep in mind that bracketing shots (and then manipulating those images in PhotoShop) is an advanced technique and is only necessary if you are looking to get fine-art quality images. You can still get excellent highly effective images by just getting one shot properly exposed for the illuminated regions.
Steve Parrott
Communications Director
VOLT® Lighting


Professional Quality at a Great Price

Last edited by steveparrott; 04-22-2012 at 04:17 PM.
Reply With Quote
Page generated in 0.04591 seconds with 8 queries