Originally Posted by cjohn2000
Cool that looks like our old setup. The new setup I built has a ball valve, pressure gauge, gatevalve, pressure gauge. The idea is to use the gate valve to better regulate the air, globe would be better but more pricey. Why remove the testcock? We usually just screw into it and open it. BTW two 1/4" street 90s help reduce stress on test cocks at least for the backflows in the ground
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots
With a 3/4-inch or 1-inch supply line, you probably can't fail to get enough air through the RPZ connection.
Better to have a small "whip" hose to connect to the testcocks.
Ya, I was concerned that the ball valve in the RPZ connection was too small to efficiently allow air to flow through, I was just trying to ensure proper air flow. Good to know that just hooking into the testcock will be sufficient.
As for the design on the gauge, this is what I basically came up with in a pinch. Now knowing hat I need to do, I plan on building a better pressure gauge next year, so thanks for the design advice.
I rented the compressor for the weekend to give myself ample time to get the 5 blowouts done that I need to do
Here's a question for you guys.
When blowing out a zone, when do you think it's sufficiently blown out? The one I did today, it seemed like I would get one head out six that might be spiting water, but the rest were dry.
I played it by ear, and just figured enough was enough and shut down that zone and went to the next. After I ran through, I hit each zone one more time and I would push a bit more water out until one or twos head might have a light mist and no real spurts of water.
I wanted to go until there was no water coming out at all, but I was afraid of pushing too much air through the dry sections and melting parts of the system.