Originally Posted by bigviclbi
I have a 2004 f-250 4wd 5.4 with 130,000 miles. trying to get ready for the spring season and am trying to get as much maintenance done this winter as I can. Just did the trans fluid/filter, battery, plugs, rotors, changed the rear oil and did fuel filter.Did the ball joints last year. What else does anyone recommend that I might be missing? I tow my dump trailers with this truck so its my main vehicle and it gets alot of use, about 25-30k miles a year. Thanks.
You can lube the bolts periodically that attach the rear suspension springs to the frame. Don't use petroleum based products as it can degrade the bushings.
Power steering fluid and brake fluid often go unchanged in many vehicles. If the PS fluid is black - flush it. It's worth the $80 in the long run. Heat is the enemy of any fluid, next to contamination.
Running full synthetic oil is also a viable option to lengthen the life of the engine, increase drain intervals and in some rare cases increase mileage.
When I ran a plow years ago, each fall and again in the spring I would get the truck load tested to make sure the alternator and battery were running as they should.
As it was mentioned, get the coolant tested. If it hasn't been changed in the last 60K, it'd be advisable to do so. If you're still running the OEM upper and lower coolant hoses, you might want to replace them along with the thermostat. The thermostat is a $5 piece that can cause you a lot of grief when it fails. I had a t-stat fail at 138K miles on my Durango. I wasn't towing anything at the time but I was able to get to the hardware store and use the on board tools I had to change it out. The rad cap did its job and relieved the excess pressure (steam) as the coolant in the upper hose had evaporated. After the engine cooled down a bit I was able to change out the t-stat in about an hour. It took longer then usual thanks to a complicated bolt that was only accessed by pulling the alternator up an inch! Otherwise, it would have taken me about 15 minutes.
Also, the front differential, even when you don't have 4wd engaged still turns, and the gear oil in it should be changed as well as the transfer case. It's a good rule of thumb to change both axles at the same time.