Originally Posted by ricky86
There's a brown wire that comes from the key switch. It goes to the start relay. The start relay must be activated or the pump won't work.(It completes the ground on the coil side of the relay). The brown wire goes to the circut side of the start relay. When activated, the relay switchs voltage to the blue wire, which in turn goes to the starter sol, which activates it. Trace those wires(brown and blue) from the switch to the POST on the sol. Key switch has to be in the start position. If you have voltage to the start relay's brown wire and not to the blue, and the terminals are intact, good chance it's the relay. Don't match the relay. They look the same but some have a different amp rating. All the info is on the relay. You have to check one circut at a time, and perform a voltage drop test on each. That's the best way to check for dirty , corroded connections. Or would you like to continue the Toro bashing with a dealer that's trying to help you?
You're right again...Ricky..
Matching up a relay is a recipe for mistakes...
You have to know what you are matching up..
Personally...I have never seen a grass cutter ....that didn't know how to read and understand a wiring schematic...ever successfully troubleshoot a Kohler EFI..
The engine wasn't designed to be worked on by the end user..