Originally Posted by DieselMDX
OK peeps after reading a ton of threads on different seeding ideas and techniques this is my plan for my lawn. I have not over seeded in 2 years because I knew I was getting irrigation done and it was probably going to get trashed. My front lawn is KBG sod and is about 6 years old the back is some kind of hydro seed which is about 5.5 years old. I am using Black Beauty Ultra as seed and scotts starter fert with scotts seed soil on the areas that need complete seeding. The irrigation guys really did a number on my lawn.
Dethatch entire lawn
Use Billy Goat vacuum to remove any loose clippings raking did not remove
Cut lawn to 1.5 inches
Use Bluebird aerator to prepare lawn for seed
DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS?
Seed with Black Beauty Ultra
SHOULD I APPLY AT SEEDING RATE INSTEAD OF OVERSEED RATE?
Thin areas get Scotts seeding soil
Spread Scotts Starter Fert over entire lawn
Water first thing morning then short blast mid afternoon to keep seed moist.
Temps here in Mass are about mid to high 60 in the day mid to low 40s at night.
IS THAT TOO MUCH WATER?
Any advice is appreciated I am hoping to get the best results for my limited experience.
I'm not trying to be rude but you're going to fail and fail miserably. Why? Because you've done NOTHING in your outline to deal with Mother Nature's CRABGRASS and WEEDS. As a result, your seed will come up great at first and you'll be patting yourself on the back for a job well done. About a month later, you're going to see light green grass (Crabgrass) growing all over the place and by then it'll be too late. That grass will continue to grow throughout the summer until it's taken over your entire lawn. You'll be pulling your hair out and then be reseeding again next fall. Also, that Black Beauty seed you're using contains "Frontier Perennial Ryegrass" - which will not match your Bluegrass Sod. As a result, you'll be sure to see patches of light green grass if you're only patching certain areas.
LISTEN UP PEEPS! If you want to seed in the spring time, you NEED TO DO IT RIGHT! If you don't spend the money up front at the beginning of the season and purchase Tupersan (Siduron) to prevent crabgrass (with TWO Heavy applictions) you'll be spending it on the back side when you're redoing your entire lawn again in the fall.
If your lawn were my lawn, this is what I would do.
Scalp it down to the lowest setting possible on your lawn mower and remove the clippings with either a bagger or a rake/leaf blower. Once that is done, I would rent a slice seeder and slice seed the areas you want to have repaired with the new lawn seeding rate.
For the front lawn, I would purchase a bag of Quality Bluegrass Seed (100% Bluegrass) from your nearest John Deere Landscapes location (there's about 20 of them in Massachusetts). This will match your Bluegrass Sod much better than the Black Beauty. I would then slice seed the weakened areas in the front in both directions. For the back lawn, I would purchase a bag of Fifty/Fifty Seed (50% Perennial Ryegrass/50% Kentucky Bluegrass), also from your nearest John Deere Landscapes location and slice seed the weakened areas out back in both directions. THERE IS NO NEED TO SLICE SEED HEALTHY, THICK SECTIONS as the grass seed will have no room to grow.
When done with the slice seeding, it's time to apply a Starter Fertilizer WITH Tupersan (Siduron is the active ingredient). This product will allow you to grow your seed but will stunt Mother Nature's crabgrass and weeds, allowing your seed to come up. Your nearest John Deere Landscapes location should have it in stock and a 25 lb. bag will cost around $75.00 and cover 5,000 sq. feet on the heavy setting. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE HEAVY SETTING for maximum fertilization and weed control. Since you need 60 days to grow your grass thick enough to withstand a conventional crabgrass pre-emergent crabgrass control such as Dimension, and the Tupersan (Siduron) only lasts for 30 days, you'll need to do TWO applications of this product - once on the day you're seeding and again 30 days later. The 2nd application will last until the 60 day mark from seeding, at which point you should be able to use a conventional crabgrass pre-emergent control to carry you through the rest of the summer.
Your irrigation system should be set for 3 times per day (6:00am, 12:00pm, 6:00pm), about 10-15 minutes per zone each time they come on. You'll need to do this until it's full and thick, then you can back off the 3 light waterings and begin to water once or twice deeply to encourage root growth.
Here's a program that I'll give you that will work if you can follow it.
5/1/13 - Scalp lawn and remove clippings. Slice seed bare/weakened areas with seed that matches your lawn (Blue for the front & 50/50 for the rear). Starter Fertilizer with Tupersan (Siduron).
5/29/13 - Starter Fertilizer with Tupersan
6/26/13 - Lesco's 19-0-6 Dimension (Fertilizer + Crabgrass Pre-Emergent)
7/24/13 - Lesco's 19-0-8 Allectus (Fertilier + Insect Control & Grub Control + 2% Iron)
8/21/13 - Lesco's 28-0-12 + 3% Iron
9/18/13 - Lesco's 21-0-21 + 2% Iron (Winterizer). Also, get a soil test done to gauge how much lime you'll need to apply. When the results come back, purachase and apply lime accordingly.
ALL of these products can be purchased at your local John Deere Landscapes locations. I'm not sure what town you're from in Massachusetts but we've got stores everywhere around here. Go to www.johndeerelandscapes.com
to locate a store near you.