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Old 05-18-2013, 11:55 AM
adam.neusbaum adam.neusbaum is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: summerfield, fl
Posts: 467
Just stumbled across your thread Rick-
The 2" square tubing is a great idea but if you could do what was suggested and leave the doors shut you are better off 'cause they act like an instant brace & stop & the only thing you'd need is 3 knee braces, one in the center & 2 outters.
Or if keeping the doors closed really isn't an option you might utilize those D ring anchors there by the front edge of the ramp. Maybe put a 7/16"eye-bolt thru the 3/4" plywood 6 inches back & near the side edge & use those quick connect snap rings with a very short chain to keep it from sliding back. By having the eyebolts higher up it'd promote the front edge of the plywood to stay down. Also when unloading it's good to just pull off the top layer & let it trickle down the base layer which is layered over the ramp & trailer floor. This way you have les risk of the material trying to plow its way under the ramp edge.
As you know, Lawnsite & tractorbynet are great places for advice on things like this.
I was reading these replies for a better way myself, great posting & nice editing on those pics by the way. How'd you do that, thru an ipad?

I recently wanted to replace my dumptruck floor so I decided to just go with pt 3/4" plywood @ $35 sheet instead of steel 'cause this way I was able to build the hinged adjustable ramp right into the floor. Not like I'm hauling anything but compost anyway.
We're just using the 3/8" rope ratchet to support the sides instead of a knee brace.

So if we were going shopping together I'd look for:
Plywood sheet & have them cut the width for you there.
(4) 1/2" x 3.5" eyebolts with fender washers, lockwashers & nuts.
(2) heavy duty Rope-Ratchets.
Then just plan on cutting a 2x6 into a knee brace for the center & wahala.
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Last edited by adam.neusbaum; 05-18-2013 at 12:04 PM.
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