Originally Posted by Victorsaur
Thank you for the detailed response agrostis. It turns out that the main difference - and it is a huge one - is that our soils are predominantly clay while it is predominantly loamy in Pennsylvania. Which is why fertilizer will not burn cool season grasses over there as easily if applied during the height of the growing season (better drainage).
I guess the only other uestion that I had is how often would I want to apply phosphorous and dolomitic lime annually? The answer for both is either 1 or 2.
And Riggle bro... no offense but..
. I think you may want to do some more research on the benefits of phosphorous and how it can be applied so that runoff doesn't occur. It is a great nutrient. And over time it is greatly reduces the need for herbicide application, which is often quite toxic. Diammonium phosphate is supposed to be the most soluble and is for turf applications.
Im with riggle on this one, existing turf should not need supplemental applications of phosphorous, Atleast for our cool season grasses. Proper management practices like leaving clippings, no bagging, will allow clippings to decompose naturally, assuming there is addequate decomposing organisms in the soil.
We just had a lady ask us why her lawn was looking thin, she had a soil sample done and sent it to me. Phosphorus levels were high. I've yet to see a soil sample come back with phosphorous low when someone has been recycling nutrients.
In our land of 10000 lakes, phosphorous is a huge contributor to algae blooms. some may be from excessive P application and runoff, some from clippings and leaves washing into the streams and decomposing, releasing the P into the lakes.
Also, riggle is correct. It is illegal to apply P to a lawn unless it is being renovated or a soil test states it is deficient.
For soils up here, I believe 2-3lbs actual N is recommended, split between 2-3 applications throughout the growing season. No more then 1 lb actual N per application. According to the MNLA atleast