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Old 08-28-2013, 11:53 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston-Salem NC
Posts: 1,659
I'm glad you pruned that tree, the more sunlight you can provide the better. After this do all your pruning during the coldest part of the year. That's when the tree is dormant and can handle pruning the best. I would suggest that you only lay sod up to the drip line of the canopy of the tree. Tree's suck up the water and grass and tree's just don't mix well. A picture of this is needed though, i really can't make this call without seeing it.

Starter fertilizer is what you need and that analysis sound's right. You need to start thinking of fertilizer in term's of pound's of nitrogen per 1000 square feet per year. The three number's on a fertilizer bag are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, in that order. A good spreader is essential, if kept clean, dry and indoor's a quality spreader can last 25 year's.

I would save the root stimulator for tree's and shrub's. sod straight from the farm is just about maxed out on fertilizer. It would help a little bit it just probably isn't needed. If you do use it, i would spray it on the sod, otherwise it might evaporate before you can get the sod on top of it.

I have never used a soil activator, i don't know what to tell you, but that sound's like something you apply to the soil before you lay the sod.

The whole point of tamping or rolling sod after it is laid is to get good sod to soil contact and to get rid of air pocket's. You can do this if you want, but a good watering will do the same thing. I guess the thinner the sod the more i would be tempted to tamp. It's just as important to have tight seam's as good sod to soil contact.

A good raking is all that is required. Have you had a real soil test? This might be important. Do you know what the pH of the soil is? You should know this. Don't forget to keep that sod WET for the first few week's. Take before and after picture's. Good luck.

Last edited by agrostis; 08-28-2013 at 11:57 PM.
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