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  #1  
Old 09-07-2009, 11:45 AM
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turf hokie turf hokie is offline
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Fairy Ring

We have a sports complex that was installed last summer. It has an awful case of fairy ring that is covering about an acre of the complex. It almost looks like a batch of soil that was brought in had a problem with it as it is in a swath across one section.

My question...would you do anything different than this, keeping in mind we are trying to be as organic as possible.

Aerate it heavily, 4 passes. Apply diamataceous (sp?) earth, work it in, then seed. After seeding we were going to apply NPP from ICT Organics to prevent further problems this year.

Next season we were looking to put them on a program with ICT's NPP as a preventative.

This is a high end complex with heavy use from local leagues, camps, travel teams, colleges up to one of the women's national teams. We can rotate onto a synthetic field most of the season except September and October.

Thanks
Bryan
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Old 09-07-2009, 09:53 PM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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I was going to suggest adding a wetting agent next spring in the worst of these areas if the affected areas still stand out. Then I looked up the ICT NPP material. It sounds like that works like a wetting agent (and more). At the 2 oz/M rate suggested for fungus, I would double check to make sure it is ok for new seedlings.

Not sure I would go to the trouble and expense of adding the DE for two reasons: I don't think you can add enough to make a big difference as a one-time practice - and once you begin topdressing you should continue to do it. If your aerating goes well, you will have some plugs to drag around for your seedbed. Has the turf grown in fully since last season's work?

Masking it by ensuring nitrogen is in place and working throughout the season is probably your best bet. Since you are overseeding, look at NTEP for resistant varieties.

The good news is all of the practices you mention are good for the fields anyway, as you know. I am not a fan of all organic programs, but that wasn't the question and I am not trying to start trouble.

What sport btw? Soccer?
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Old 09-08-2009, 06:34 AM
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turf hokie turf hokie is offline
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Yes, it is a soccer complex.

Everything has fully grown in, being cut 2x per week. I work closely with the cutter so that we can let the turf grow a bit when the fields are not being used.

It was not fully irrigated until about a month ago, but we are in good shape there now.

We have already gotten our seed in and bought it based on have disease resistance.

We have not shortchanged the field as far as N this season. That is why I was so surprised that it got Fairy Ring as bad as it did.

We have put down 3 apps of 1 pound N each, the first round went down late and the 4th will go down with the seed. All soil tests came back good. No anomolies.

As far as the organic program, we are not on a full organic. We are using a bridge program. So we still applied Dimension, Merit and broadleaf. But we did it all at the same time so as to only have one application that contained chemicals. This time of the year we cannot shut the fields down and I can only get on them from early AM until 4:00 which means that whatever I do has to be playable by then. That is why I am looking for alternative options.

Thanks for the reply.

And you are right it is too quiet in here.

Bryan
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:43 PM
jmoore16135 jmoore16135 is offline
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Have you thought about deep tining with hollow tines, the effected area then removing those plugs to remove the 'bad soil'. Then from there topdress with sand or a clean material. I know this will not be a quick fix and it will probably have to be contracted out due to the size of the area, but it should help out.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:14 PM
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Good idea but nobody can guarantee that the lines are deeper than 4 inches

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Old 09-09-2009, 06:52 PM
JABBERS JABBERS is offline
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From what I heard a guy told me those rings are from some kind of a mushroom or something and when they die the ground has more nitrogen there. I don't know if this is true or not.
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:17 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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There is only one fungicide with a label for control of fairy ring--Prostar.

take a look at the info.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/p...airyrings.html
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:25 PM
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Heritage will control it as well, but I prefer to try the NPP and cultural practices first. Then look at the cost and the decision is even clearer.

http://www.syngentaprofessionalprodu...3AL1B0705n.pdf
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:41 PM
mdlwn1 mdlwn1 is offline
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Depending on which type of Fairy ring you have...fungicides generally dont work that great..I have found that the worst problem tends to be the hydrophbic nature of the soil in 80 temps and up. I have had some success with humic acids as well as good results with different wetting agents. I would highly recomend this approach. If you have the budget...you can try fungicides (several will work a little) in conjuction with the wetting agents. I will be trying something a little new this spring in my worst area. Im going to apply those baked ceramic particles in a test area to see if they act as water reserves and nutrient holding sites.

Last edited by mdlwn1; 09-10-2009 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 09-10-2009, 08:45 PM
mdlwn1 mdlwn1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
There is only one fungicide with a label for control of fairy ring--Prostar.

take a look at the info.

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/p...airyrings.html
This only talks about one type. Any 3336g propiconizole. or sim will be effective to some extent.
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