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  #1  
Old 11-01-2009, 03:16 PM
bavaria-n bavaria-n is offline
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stopping the crab grass seeds

Hi
The spring is far away, but I am all ready thinking about what to use first on my lawn. There are some yellow shrubs that bloom in the spring, in the same time I need to use fertilizer for my lawn that stops the crab grass seeds from germinating.
And I have a new problem, the new neighbors that that walk from home to home and complain about smelling this and that including fertilizer…
So I need something that doesn’t smell.
By the way they stopped walking to homes and started to call Environmentalists, yahh …
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  #2  
Old 11-01-2009, 06:19 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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You can't fix stupid--not you--the neighbors, I mean. You should apply a low odor product like one containing Dimension (dithiopyr). It is safer, because it is effective at a low dose rate. One-tenth of one percent in the bag. About 2 tenths of a pound per acre.

Apply it just after your first mowing. Apply again in 6 weeks if your crabgrass problem is severe.
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2009, 01:48 AM
atouchofnature atouchofnature is offline
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Corn Gluten Meal is a good choice, especially if the neighbors are complaining about pesticides. It is a corn by-product and is literally edible. It is a bit more expensive than most other choices, and is not quite as effective at first, but it does work. If you apply it 3 times the 1st year, early spring, late spring, and early fall, by the second year you will get a very good control of weeds.

If you want to stick with synthetic pesticides, follow Riggle's advice and go with Dimension. It is a very good product, and in my opinion, safer than many other choices.
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2009, 03:42 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Grow grass instead of stunting its growth. I'm not an environmental whacko when I say it irritates me to no end; that the "professional" system is so concerned about killing weeds - they have no window of opportunity to grow grass.
That is one "Stupid" that could be fixed.
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2009, 08:48 AM
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Ric Ric is offline
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Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Grow grass instead of stunting its growth. I'm not an environmental whacko when I say it irritates me to no end; that the "professional" system is so concerned about killing weeds - they have no window of opportunity to grow grass.
That is one "Stupid" that could be fixed.
Smallaxe

So what is your point? Crab Grass will out compete turf because it is a fast growing annual. Turf is a perennial and grows slower than Crab Grass. The more water and fertilize without controlling Crab Grass the quicker you grow Crab Grass instead of Turf because the Crab Grass out competes Turf. To establish a thick turf you must control undesirable weeds.

How do you control undesirable Crab Grass??? There are two schools of thought. One is that Pre Emerge will chemically ROOT PRUNE turf and stunt it's growth while not totally controlling Crab Grass. The second is Post Emerge will also stunt desirable turf while not always giving complete control of Crab Grass. Both methods need repeat application on weaker turf. Both Methods have some negative effect on Turf. BTW I am of the school of Post Emerge SPOT Treatment.

Culture Practices like cutting high and watering help grow Healthy Turf. But Chemicals are a must, whether in Synthetic or Organic form.

PS. IMHO Growing Turf is the Easy part. Controlling Weeds is in fact the most important part of growing Healthy Turf.
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2009, 10:19 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by Ric View Post
BTW I am of the school of Post Emerge SPOT Treatment.
See now I have to agree with Ric (kill me now). If you need to control weeds, then do it when they appear. "Just in case" applications of anything is an asinine practice IMO.
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  #7  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:37 AM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
See now I have to agree with Ric (kill me now). If you need to control weeds, then do it when they appear. "Just in case" applications of anything is an asinine practice IMO.
Add me to the list of spot spraying post emergence for weedy grasses.
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  #8  
Old 11-04-2009, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
See now I have to agree with Ric (kill me now). If you need to control weeds, then do it when they appear. "Just in case" applications of anything is an asinine practice IMO.
Kiril

Let me say I believe in a once a year Spring blanket spray on thinner lawns with a low rate broad leaf herbicide. This is to catch those broad leaf weeds before they get started. On my thick lawns I use post emerge only as needed. Depending on the lawn it might take two years to get it thick enough not to blanket spray in Spring.
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"TG doesn't give a rats ass about being "Responsible" as long as sales/production quotas are met. That's it in a nutshell. A recipe for disaster IMO." Ted Putnam 2/28/14

You can lead a Donkey to water but you can't make the Jackass Drink

"As Americans you have the right to be stupid." John Kerry

"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid.” John Wayne.
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  #9  
Old 11-04-2009, 10:07 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
Kiril

Let me say I believe in a once a year Spring blanket spray on thinner lawns with a low rate broad leaf herbicide. This is to catch those broad leaf weeds before they get started. On my thick lawns I use post emerge only as needed. Depending on the lawn it might take two years to get it thick enough not to blanket spray in Spring.
I don't support blanket applications under most circumstances. There are of course exceptions.

....... and I think you meant catch the weeds before they get established ... not started.
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  #10  
Old 11-04-2009, 10:30 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by Ric View Post
Smallaxe

So what is your point? Crab Grass will out compete turf because it is a fast growing annual.. ....
Not in Wisco...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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