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Old 08-02-2010, 11:16 AM
Some Sprinkler Guy Some Sprinkler Guy is offline
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Toro Electric / Hydraulic Solenoid

Does anyone have any experience with the toro hydraulic to electric manifold adapter. It looks like the attached and converts a hydraulic system to electric.

I have had frequent solenoid issues I presume to be heat related (full sun in ground box). I have tested voltage at 26vac, and even attached a non-used solenoid to the mv terminal to try and lower voltage a tad. It seems every year when it gets hot (95-100plus) I start dropping solenoids (shorting out). I am assuming it is related to the low water flow rates not keeping the solenoids cool and the hot weather. I have run times of and hour on almost all zones.

I am trying to find out if anyone knows of a solenoid that will fit and work correctly it besides the toro. Cannot get a universal or irritrol to work. I am tired of waiting for replacement $50 dollar toro solenoids.

The other issue I have been having is frequent solenoid sticking. It seems to be related to lime buildup I am getting on the solid metal solenoid plugers.

Any experienced input appreciated.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:27 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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If you are trying to reduce solenoid voltage, you would do better to employ a resistor in series with the load. Of course, you could just go direct to the valves, and make them electric-controlled. Are they Normally-Open valves?
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:21 PM
Some Sprinkler Guy Some Sprinkler Guy is offline
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10-4 on the resistor. I really just threw a solenoid on there to see if it made a difference. It appears to be a heat related issue as I am still having failures, and the voltage looked normal.

Toro 640 Valve in heads with about 3 to a zone and 11 zones. So putting elec. valves is not really an option. They are normally open.

Been trying to get them to change them out, but they insist on continuing to fix em.
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:13 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Too bad you can't just install another Toro Monitor controller. If temperatures in the valve box are an issue, you could get some relief by digging a much deeper box, and adding an inner divider.

Depending on the current drawn by the solenoids, you could look at using a 5-watt, 20-ohm dropping resistor. Actual power drop in the resistor will be more like one watt, but it doesn't hurt to spec this stuff conservatively.

Last edited by Wet_Boots; 08-02-2010 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:03 PM
brookviewlawncare brookviewlawncare is offline
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Interesting I have one conversion that I did 3 years ago and lost two solenoids in the last 3 weeks ! My conversion in a outbuilding. Come to think of it I have one more that I service that has got to be 8-10 years old in a mechanical room that I have never touched. How old is your unit?
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:10 PM
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Sprinkus Sprinkus is offline
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Can unit be installed in above ground, ventilated enclosure?
All of the conversions I've done were always in a building where the original controller was located.
Too bad you can't use DC latching solenoids. That would cure the problem!
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:00 AM
Some Sprinkler Guy Some Sprinkler Guy is offline
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This is the second manifold. The first one had the same probelems dropping solenoids but accumulated lime buildup forced me to replace it. This manifold is probably 2 years old.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:05 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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The idea of a deeper pit comes from curbside meters up north. They escape freezing on account of the 4+ foot pit, and that's with only a manhole cover on the pit. The temperature of the soil moderates as you get deeper. Some of the pit covers came with an inner cover, which left an airspace of about half a foot, and provided extra protection from the cold.
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:48 AM
Some Sprinkler Guy Some Sprinkler Guy is offline
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I think the deeper pit is the best idea. I am going to give that a try.
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:04 AM
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The liming up sounds like a real annoyance. What was the original controller to the system?
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