Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-21-2012, 12:16 PM
dc240nt's Avatar
dc240nt dc240nt is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW MN
Posts: 80
Aeration Questions

I'm going to aerate my yard this fall but I have a couple questions about timing and applications.

1) When is it to late to aerate? When is the perfect fall timing (NW MN)
2) I want to over seed an area as well. Should I add the seed before running the aerator?
3) Id like to add a pre-emergent herbicide as well. When should I add this? Same time as aeration? Will this harm the grass seed.

Spell it out for me guys, those three questions.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-21-2012, 03:46 PM
Turf Troll Turf Troll is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hockessin Delaware
Posts: 227
http://www.extension.umn.edu/gardeni...nfo_lawns.html

http://www.sustland.umn.edu/maint/existing.htm

spelling out
search Bing
search Google
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-21-2012, 04:52 PM
Dr.NewEarth Dr.NewEarth is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Vancouver Canada
Posts: 1,406
1. I prefer to aerate in the spring. If you aerate in the fall there are leaves falling.
You can aerate whenever you like actually. Obviously you can't do it when the ground is frozen. I prefer spring because that's when the grass is starting to grow

2. Seed after you aerate. That way seed will get into the aeration holes too. If you seed before hand, the seed will get all over the aerator tines.

3. Don't do a pre-emergent until the spring if you have to, well after you have seeded. A pre-emergent may not harm established grass, but it will have an adverse effect on seed germination. By the way, if you have a healthy lawn alot of your weed problems should go away naturally.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-22-2012, 07:17 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,814
Do you have a reason to aerate, or will overseeding accomplish what you want to do? Start overseeding after August 15th for cool season grasses in this part of the midwest... Pre-M is definately out of the question if you want new seeding, besides there is no reason for pre-m in the Fall planting season...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-24-2012, 01:37 AM
dc240nt's Avatar
dc240nt dc240nt is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW MN
Posts: 80
Im in the Red River Valley, Fargo/Moorhead area of NW MN. Our soil is very heavy clay, thus "Clay County". Just getting average rainfall around here is enough to compact the soil. Aeration is very big business around here. Now you get 25 miles east and its a different story. But right here soil compaction, thus sparse turf, is very common. The area's Im concerned about in my yard have been over seeded every year for the past 6 years and still very little growth. Yea, I have grass, but its thin, seems its always been a struggle.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-24-2012, 08:46 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,814
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc240nt View Post
Im in the Red River Valley, Fargo/Moorhead area of NW MN. Our soil is very heavy clay, thus "Clay County". Just getting average rainfall around here is enough to compact the soil. Aeration is very big business around here. Now you get 25 miles east and its a different story. But right here soil compaction, thus sparse turf, is very common. The area's Im concerned about in my yard have been over seeded every year for the past 6 years and still very little growth. Yea, I have grass, but its thin, seems its always been a struggle.
Understood...

Do you add ammendments, such as a sandy compost, to your turf after aerating???

oftentimes, too much water on clay soils suffocates the root zones and cause thin turf as a result... do you have irrigation and is the clay able to dry out b4 the next irrigation event???
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-24-2012, 08:30 PM
dc240nt's Avatar
dc240nt dc240nt is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW MN
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Understood...

Do you add ammendments, such as a sandy compost, to your turf after aerating???

oftentimes, too much water on clay soils suffocates the root zones and cause thin turf as a result... do you have irrigation and is the clay able to dry out b4 the next irrigation event???
I havnt added anything at all and I dont have irrigation. I do not water either, mostly because its seldom needed. We seem to get plenty of rain. I have never aerated it, or any lawn for that matter. Im a new LCO this spring so most of this Im learning as I go.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-24-2012, 01:45 AM
dc240nt's Avatar
dc240nt dc240nt is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW MN
Posts: 80
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
Do you have a reason to aerate, or will overseeding accomplish what you want to do? Start overseeding after August 15th for cool season grasses in this part of the midwest... Pre-M is definately out of the question if you want new seeding, besides there is no reason for pre-m in the Fall planting season...
Thank you!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-25-2012, 09:23 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,814
It's one thing to consider if you run into lawns that just don't breathe well... when getting paid to seed lawns, it is best to do it in the fall, but at the same time you may get lucky with new seed in the summer as long as there's some shade and enough moisture... I would experiment(on your own turf, or friends) with compost, sandy compost and dragging it altogether after aerating and see exactly what happens to the turf... that way as you gain confidence and experience you'll be able to counsel h.o.s adequately... compost is pretty expensive for most people to get excited about...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-25-2012, 10:59 PM
dc240nt's Avatar
dc240nt dc240nt is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: NW MN
Posts: 80
Thats a good idea. I really appreciate your advice and time. I'll try and get that done this fall. When we moved into this house it was new construction so no turf just black dirt. I worked a 10 hr day in 95F temp laying down seed, covering it with dirt, then I added a layer of straw over that. Two days later we had 60 mph winds and it all blew away. So I did another 10 hr day in 95F temp, did the same thing, 50 mph winds this time. I said the hell with it, I'll take what I get. I've beem playing with it every yr since (6 yrs) and actually, it looks pretty good. Better this yr then ever before. Just have a few this areas in the back yard Id like to remedy.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:42 PM.

Page generated in 0.08572 seconds with 7 queries