Electrical Problem w/ 52" Wright Stander RH

[MisterBreeze]

Starting problems/ replaced the solenoid and worked ok for a short time. Determined the solenoid was not grounded properly.
Problem started happening again. By-passed solenoid and started right up.

Now I find the starter is not ground properly. How can the starter not be ground properly if it is attached directly to the engine?? I now have to attached a jumper cable from the negative battery terminal and to the starter to ground it and it starts right up.

Any ideas??

[RigglePLC]

Bad ground from battery to frame.

[MisterBreeze]

Originally Posted by RigglePLC

Bad ground from battery to frame.

That's what i was thinking but wouldn't that bad ground affect many other things? (ie engine running, blades engage)

[BigFish]

The ground cable attaches to the motor mount bolt, or to the block itself, not the frame. Check it.
Wright uses a pretty heavy powdercoat that needs to be cleaned off when you attach any wires. I've had to do it several times when replacing solenoids etc.
The engine will run without a battery, its called flywheel magneto.

[MisterBreeze]

Originally Posted by BigFish

The ground cable attaches to the motor mount bolt, or to the block itself, not the frame. Check it.
Wright uses a pretty heavy powdercoat that needs to be cleaned off when you attach any wires. I've had to do it several times when replacing solenoids etc.
The engine will run without a battery, its called flywheel magneto.

What I've noticed is the mower will run on high RPM but when I lower to an idle it stalls. With the ground cable attached to the started it will idle steady.

I was hoping not to have to get under this mower because its so heavy and hard to get at everything but I guess I have no choice.

[ed2hess]

Originally Posted by MisterBreeze

What I've noticed is the mower will run on high RPM but when I lower to an idle it stalls. With the ground cable attached to the started it will idle steady.

I was hoping not to have to get under this mower because its so heavy and hard to get at everything but I guess I have no choice.

Drop the deck off it doesn't take very long and it definitely worth it when replacing hydro belt or any work on the hydro units or clutch.

[MisterBreeze]

It was a loose engine bolt that the battery ground was attached to. I still have to jump the solenoid, but as long as it runs I can make it a few more weeks and properly repair over the winter. The ignition switch and PTO switch are acting up now.

[CLS LLC]

Originally Posted by MisterBreeze

It was a loose engine bolt that the battery ground was attached to. I still have to jump the solenoid, but as long as it runs I can make it a few more weeks and properly repair over the winter. The ignition switch and PTO switch are acting up now.

The starting circuit goes through the ignition switch, pto switch, starter relay, and then to the starter solenoid.

You need to check the wiring diagrams on their website parts lookup at www.wrightmfg.com and jump the correct prongs in all of those parts to find which one is causing the issue.

The other option, which I like better and is easier, is to purchase all the parts, replace them one by one to find out which one caused the issue. Then keep the extras on your trailer as spares.

[BigFish]

Originally Posted by MisterBreeze

It was a loose engine bolt that the battery ground was attached to. I still have to jump the solenoid, but as long as it runs I can make it a few more weeks and properly repair over the winter. The ignition switch and PTO switch are acting up now.

You should try jumping out the OPC switch ( for test purposes only ).
Its on the right side tucked in next to the pump. The clip is on the bottom of the connector, slide a screwdriver under the clip as you pull on the wires to remove the connector. Jump the two terminals and you should be good to go.

Another thing to check is the fuse holders. They're prone to lose grip on the fuse and create an intermittent headache.

[CLS LLC]

Originally Posted by BigFish

You should try jumping out the OPC switch ( for test purposes only ).
Its on the right side tucked in next to the pump. The clip is on the bottom of the connector, slide a screwdriver under the clip as you pull on the wires to remove the connector. Jump the two terminals and you should be good to go.

Another thing to check is the fuse holders. They're prone to lose grip on the fuse and create an intermittent headache.

I can't say for sure on his specific stander, but must wright standers do not include the OPC switch in the starting circuit, only the grounding circuit for the coil's. That's to say, you can start the mower without standing on the platform, but if you get off of the platform while the PTO is engaged it will ground the coils.