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Old 11-02-2012, 10:59 PM
mrsteve mrsteve is offline
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Hydraulic Valve

Ran into this guy and need some help. If possible I want to try a rebuild. The place I use to get old stuff has closed down and the local distributors are of no help. The valve is at the foot of a big oak and is a copper pipe system. Relocate and replace is a last resort, but may be the only way. I can flip the seat but I have to have a new diaphragm. Anybody ever make their own diaphragm? If so were did you get the material. The valve has Texas Lawn Sprinkler Co. on the top and is probably a 2" I haven't seen the pipe yet, too many roots. A Weathermatic 3" diaphragm is close in size around 7" diameter, but I need just a flex diaphragm the seat is separate on this valve. Open to any ideas. I've even thought about spraying the old diaphragm with that rubber sealer they advertize on TV for gutters.
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:21 PM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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awesome

bet you 5 bucks the pigtail boss knows your answer
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:02 AM
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Waterlogged Waterlogged is offline
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Yeah, it was a shame Riggs closed. Did you find the solenoid at the end of the copper tube or did the copper go to a bank of solenoids by the house? It's been my experience that your pipe will be copper. Put in new. I know you have a lot of roots, but reroute. In the long run it's better. If you have any problems later with this valve, it will be your nickel.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:37 AM
mrsteve mrsteve is offline
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Originally Posted by Waterlogged View Post
Yeah, it was a shame Riggs closed. Did you find the solenoid at the end of the copper tube or did the copper go to a bank of solenoids by the house? It's been my experience that your pipe will be copper. Put in new. I know you have a lot of roots, but reroute. In the long run it's better. If you have any problems later with this valve, it will be your nickel.
The exhaust tube runs about 100' to a Richdel 205. Not sure were the 205 is sending the water to. The reason I don't want to reroute is the roots have grown solid around the piping. I'm talking the size of your leg. True it's just a matter of time before the roots win over the copper. This tree is 3 to 3 1/2' diameter. If I can get a rebuild to go a few years it will outlast the owner and this place will be a tear down for a mac mansion with the next owner. This is why you should keep the main and valves far away from trees. Even small trees become big trees. I was on an install I did twenty five years ago this week and saw the same thing happening. Tree roots pushing the main and laterals around. That tree was little when I installed the system. My valve was a good six feet from the tree and now is totally encased by roots.
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:09 AM
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mitchgo mitchgo is offline
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You are almost at the piping already what's from stopping you to re-route and replace

Why take the risk and assume the liability of dealing with the unknown that You don't have the exp or knowledge on.

I vote provide the cost for a replacement and let that person take it or leave it
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:40 PM
mrsteve mrsteve is offline
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Found a place that makes hoses and rubber stuff (Texas Rubber). Got them to cut a round out of a similar material for the diaphragm, just needs bolts holes punched. Also got a new seat. Going to give it a try.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:33 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by mrsteve View Post
Found a place that makes hoses and rubber stuff (Texas Rubber). Got them to cut a round out of a similar material for the diaphragm, just needs bolts holes punched. Also got a new seat. Going to give it a try.
I'm gonna bet the mesh material on the old diaphragm plays an integral part in the opening and closing of the valve.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:37 AM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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I'm gonna bet the mesh material on the old diaphragm plays an integral part in the opening and closing of the valve.
Agreed. The "dome" section of the rubber probably aids the rubber in opening and closing of the valve.

Guessing that the thinner mesh area is where the rubber is allowed to flex.


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Old 11-04-2012, 01:49 PM
mrsteve mrsteve is offline
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Originally Posted by White Gardens View Post
Agreed. The "dome" section of the rubber probably aids the rubber in opening and closing of the valve.

Guessing that the thinner mesh area is where the rubber is allowed to flex.


.....
I'm not an expert on the material, but it looks like the mesh material is the same throughout the old one. The manufactured one certainly has the mesh. I'd like to say all went well with the rebuild, but I still have an issue to look at next week. Once under pressure it worked fine for several cycles, then decided to stay open. I'm looking at the valve (Richdel 205) that they are using to port off the water as a possible cause. May be that it doesn't want to close under the low flow from the exhaust tube. I'm going to verify that it will close at the valve by capping the exhaust flow, then proceed from there. I knew this was bad news from the beginning, but I'm determined to finish even if it means cutting it out and installing an electric valve.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:42 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsteve View Post
....Once under pressure it worked fine for several cycles, then decided to stay open......
Make sure there isn't any corrosion build-up on the brass parts with close tolerances, as they could prevent closing. Also, you might try a stronger spring above the diaphragm assembly. Increasing the spring force was always a cheesy fix for a valve having closing problems.
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