Best way to winterize equip?

[Schrock Lawns]

I have a 60 toro g3 with the kawi fx801 with only about 6-7 hours on the new motor what's the best way to winterize it? To where I won't have to start it once a week and can let it sit for 2-3 months
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[BigFish]

Do what it says in yer owners manual, duh!!
I would drain most all the gas out of the tank/s, start it up and let it run out of gas. Then drain whats left in the carb. Then, while the oil is still warm, drain the oil and refill with whatever oil yer gonna use in the spring. No need to change the filter. Stick to what it says in the Kaw. engine owners manual.

[KS_Grasscutter]

Originally Posted by BigFish

Do what it says in yer owners manual, duh!!
I would drain most all the gas out of the tank/s, start it up and let it run out of gas. Then drain whats left in the carb. Then, while the oil is still warm, drain the oil and refill with whatever oil yer gonna use in the spring. No need to change the filter. Stick to what it says in the Kaw. engine owners manual.

I disagree with that, have heard it will dry out parts inside the carburator. I typically blow everything off, then wash real good. Put on sharp blades, grease everything, and park it in the corner of the shop, hooked up to a battery maintainer. Some people say you need no fuel in it, others swear by a full tank plus Stabil. I do neither and haven't had any problems, but our winters aren't real cold or long anymore either.

[captken]

I would simply run it out of gas. Gas is your enemy. It doesn't age well. Gasoline contains alcohol. Alcohol absorbs water. When gas evaporates, whats left is water. Water creates problems, mainly rust. Rust screws up the carb.....etc.............

Run it dry. Leave it be. Go on with your life.

[blake101]

I always use non-ethanol gas with Marine Sta-bil, and fill it to the top. In my mind it keeps condensation from forming in the gas tank. Have never had a problem with any of my equipment or Motorcycle. Have done this for years and they start right up every time. Different things work for different people. I am sure you will get a lot of different answers. Just my two cents.

[ringahding]

I agree with the draining of fuel & oil, this is what we have done for the past 10 years. In the spring when fueling back up we use sea foam to get to the areas of the engine needed. Carb & pistons will love you for that. We have never used Stabilizer.

[dboyd351]

Originally Posted by KS_Grasscutter

I disagree with that, have heard it will dry out parts inside the carburator.

Say WHAT??? I guess all the carburetors on new equipment must be ruined because they are dried out

[all ferris]

well here is my method for the past 13 years. Park it in the shed and worry about it in the spring. I just try to only have 1/3 or less in the fuel tanks. Thats it. In the spring I may have to jump start a mower or 2 and air up some tires. And I don't have new mowers. Newest mower has over 1500 hours on it.

[SECTLANDSCAPING]

I tried stabil one year and had problems with half my equipment in spring. Since I have emptied everything.

I usually change oil first thing in the spring. I never made a big deal about it sitting in the winter with old oil but I guess it could be a issue.

[Richard Martin]

Regardless of what you do, what you don't want to do is leave a gas tank partially full. Gasahol can only pick up moisture if there is air present. Fill the tank all of the way and there is very little room for air. You should use a fuel stabilizer of the tank is full.

You should also put a tablespoon of oil in the spark plug hole and then turn the engine over a few turns. This will get a good coating of oil on the cylinder walls and piston rings prior to storage. It will smoke a bit when you restart the engine in the spring.

With 2 stroke and hybrid 2/4 stroke engines, you should put the oil down the throat of the carb instead.