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Old 11-15-2012, 01:09 PM
AlterEgo AlterEgo is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3
Honda GXV530 EXA2 very weak spark on both coils

I have a GXV530-EXA2 on a craftsman dlt3000 riding mower. I'm having the super weak spark issue on both coils. I've unhooked the stop diode connectors on each coil, but that changed nothing. I can get a very small needle tip sized blue spark if the screwdriver is darn near grounding on the block. Its not enough to spark the plugs though. I think I may have a bad coil, causing the other one to ground. Odd to have 2 coils go bad at same time.
I read mowerconsultants comment about bad circuitry in one coil causing a ground out in the 2nd coil. I haven't been able to find the process to check the coil resistance or coil/flywheel gap, or how to test the rectifier block and charge coils under flywheel. Can somebody provide the coil resistance check process and the ranges required or direct me to the info? I've looked allover the internet and came up empty. I don't want to just part change, however, I do need the tolerances to verify.

So far I've traced wiring & connections for the obvious shorts & cleaned connectors, reset the coil to flywheel gap to .016 (not positive thats the proper gap), wirebrushed the outter flywheel, removed flywheel & cleaned magnets & verified wiring not frayed & shorting for the charge coils.
**Something I did notice that seemed odd is that the sensor next to the oil drain (low oil sensor??) has no wire connected to it, nor is there any around that would reach it. So I'm assuming thats a feature that isn't functional on this engine?
Many Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:58 PM
pugs pugs is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Southwest of Chicago
Posts: 2,917
First of all get a spark tester and use that for testing spark. Your method is inaccurate to say the least.

Second, if you have the coils disconnected from each other, they cant be grounding each other out. And that isnt possible in this case, since it sounds like there is an external diode pack which is on alot of Honda's. Thats what the diodes do... Kawasaki is generally the one that has problems with that since their diode is built into the coil. If the diode goes, it can cause the other coil to not fire.

Lastly, the charging system has nothing to do with spark so testing it would be pointless.
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:08 PM
AlterEgo AlterEgo is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3
Thanks pugs. I just discovered from another site that my coil/flywheel air gap should be .010 not .016 so I'm going to make that adjustment. Then, I'm going to pull the stop diode wires and test both coils for proper spark individually. Results posted shortly.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:01 PM
AlterEgo AlterEgo is offline
LawnSite Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 3
Well, I reset the coil/flywheel air gap to .010 ..and added a little boost to the battery & it fired right up. The previous owner did mention that his mechanic would wiggle wires under the engine cover and it would work sporatically, which is what had me so focused on the electronic component failure. We'll see how long it stays running and if no problems, then we know it was a low battery and/or coil/air gap clearance issue.
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