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Old 01-20-2013, 10:01 AM
Doublewide6 Doublewide6 is offline
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Synthetic Oil. What I learned about it.

I came across this video on youtube. Eric the car guy ETCG seems to be very knowledgeable. I am wondering if this info should carry over to our mowers?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lshd7WR-a6I
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Old 01-20-2013, 03:23 PM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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I'd have trouble taking advice from a guy that doesn't know what he's talking about. He seemed to be confused as to why Mobil 1 is rated SM/CF. He knew what the SM stood for but not the CF. He explained that synthetic oil must have a different rating system. CF is a diesel oil specification. It has nothing to do with being synthetic oil. He was kinda off on few other things too but what's the point.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:24 PM
Doublewide6 Doublewide6 is offline
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I guess the point is to not use synthetic oil unless the engine manufacturer calls for it.
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:36 PM
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Engine makers specify ratings. The type is pretty irrelavent. Synthetics have properties crude bases don't. These become important when you exceed the limitations of crude based. Small engines run under conditions that qualify for severe duty lubricants. I have pulled apart many engines over the years. Synthetics are always cleaner and show less wear in my experiences.
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Old 01-20-2013, 06:50 PM
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I think the temperatures are just tooo high for conventional oil in lawn equipment, especially the air cooled ones. We switched to Schaeffer synthetic 10 years ago and are very happy with results. We run it in the hydro also.
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:07 PM
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Any quality conventional oil is perfectly suitable for the air cooled engines that we use. And I have test results to prove it. The only reason you would want to use synthetic is if you want to extend oil change intervals.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Martin View Post
Any quality conventional oil is perfectly suitable for the air cooled engines that we use. And I have test results to prove it. The only reason you would want to use synthetic is if you want to extend oil change intervals.
That is correct and it's great for a car to extend changes but you should not extend changes on mowers.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
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That is correct and it's great for a car to extend changes but you should not extend changes on mowers.
Do you have any hard data to back that claim up?
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:45 PM
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Do you have any hard data to back that claim up?
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Let me ask you a question, If this synthetic oil is so fantastic why is it that every manual I have ever seen whether it's Cub Cadet, Toro or Honda and the list goes on all say Use a high quality detergent oil of API service class. They also say synthetic oils meeting the listed classifications may be used with oil changes preformed at the recommended intervals, and I have to assume the interval would be the same because the manufacturer don't specify otherwise. The manual also says change oil and oil filters more frequently under severe conditions.

The thing that gets me is they also say, However to allow piston rings to properly seat a new or rebuilt engine should be operated for at least 50hrs using standard petroleum based oil before changing to a synthetic.

Now I'd like you to explain to me why I should change from a regular petroleum base oil to a synthetic when a synthetic isn't good enough to use to break my engine in properly. Pardon me that just doesn't make good sense.

I believe the guy in the video, there are no benefits for me to run the synthetic and it's sure not cost effective because I do my oil and oil filter changes every 50 hours.
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Mowers: Toro Z-Master 2000 Toro GS 36" Toro TurfMaster Cub Cadet Z-Force 48"
Blowers:Stihl BR 600 BR 600 BR 200 Trimmers: Stihl FS 110 Stihl FS 90
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:52 PM
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Jason Rose Jason Rose is offline
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The reason you need conventional oil to "break in" your engine before running synthetic is the exact reason why running conventional oil all the time is probably not in your best interest. It ALLOWS wear, meaning it's not providing full friction protection and is allowing small amounts of material to be worn away in your engine! good synthetic oils are so good that they won't allow an engine to wear in as needed to properly seat the rings, which will over time cause them to blow by causing lower power output and oil consumption.

No one is saying to run longer than spec on the oil changes on small engines, if they did they are wrong. I change mine every 100 hours, using amsoil air cooled formula oil. I've never seen the need to change oil every 50 hours in a machine that has a filter, even with conventional oil. I also change the filter with EVERY oil change, even though the engine mfg usually recommends changing the filter every other time. Which makes no sense to me...
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