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  #1  
Old 06-16-2013, 02:44 PM
biscuit141 biscuit141 is offline
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Location: South Bend, IN
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Lazer Z clutch removal

Well my clutch just **** the bed and the bearings are toast. I am in the process of removing it to fully assess the damage. Below is a picture of the clutch. Can anyone tell me if this is standard or reverse threads before I start cranking on it? Also, if I put a wrench on that flat spacer behind the bolt, will that hold the crank or is there another trick? Would using an impact wrench be a mistake? Any and all advice welcome.

Also, are the bearing replaceable or do I need a whole new lucth assembly? Best place to buy?

Thanks in advance.

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Old 06-16-2013, 05:11 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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Standard right hand thread. An impact works fine for removal. When installing the new clutch, apply Never Seize and torque wrench it to the recommended torque.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:25 PM
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LandFakers LandFakers is offline
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How many hours on it? just wondering. Dont mean to get off topic
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:27 PM
biscuit141 biscuit141 is offline
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Around 1000 hours. Don't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Std right hand threads meaning lefty loosely correct?
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:54 PM
O'Shark O'Shark is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biscuit141 View Post
Around 1000 hours. Don't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Std right hand threads meaning lefty loosely correct?
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Correct i.e counter-clockwise to remove. I just replaced one on my Toro Wheelhorse after 858 hours. The impact is indeed the way to go. Mine was a long 5/8" bolt. The trick was locking the crankshaft so I could get the proper torque on the bolt.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:55 PM
biscuit141 biscuit141 is offline
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How did you lock the crankshaft to torque the bolt? Are the bearings replaceable or so I need a whole new clutch? Where did you buy yours?
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Old 06-17-2013, 04:00 AM
O'Shark O'Shark is offline
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Originally Posted by biscuit141 View Post
How did you lock the crankshaft to torque the bolt? Are the bearings replaceable or so I need a whole new clutch? Where did you buy yours?
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It looks like you're on your way to fixing the problem. To answer your questions, I popped the main shroud off and locked the ring gear. My bearings were replaceable but like yours, the actual clutch was toast. I bought mine at Tulsa Engine Warehouse.

There is a burnishing procedure in the mower's service manual. It says to run the engine at half throttle and engage the clutch for 10 seconds then disengage for 10 seconds and continue until you've done it 5 times. It then says to run the engine at full throttle and do the same procedure. I had to set the air gap before and after the burnishing procedure. I don't think modern clutches have adjustable air gaps anymore.
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:28 PM
blue ridge lawn care blue ridge lawn care is offline
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Mowpart.com is a sponsor here, I've used them for clutches. Ive heard 1000 hrs is a typical lifespan. Agree on strd thread and using impact
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:43 PM
billc1004 billc1004 is offline
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Heres a trick if you dont have an air gun to remove the engine mount bolt . remove one spark plug and insert recoil starter rope size # 5 or 6 . when cylinder in down insert about 3 feet or more . hand crank nut end till tight .remove clutch re install new clutch remove rope.. also remove both spark plug wires..
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:27 PM
biscuit141 biscuit141 is offline
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I used my impact and it came right off. Was pretty simple. Now I need a new clutch.
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