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Old 07-06-2013, 08:23 PM
JBradshaw00 JBradshaw00 is offline
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removing spots of broadleaf and fertilizing early july in NC?

Ok, Long story short I picked up this yard and the guy was previously employing true green to do all the maintenance and paying a local high school kid to mow, Apparently true greens employee was having a bad day and killed around 40 plants somehow. I picked it up in late spring and he was supposed to let me know when the last application of fert was, he had a tragic death in the family and was dealing with that for a while. so now where here....

the yard needs fertilized bad, its browing and getting brittle. He has two spots around 4x4 of some sort of broad leaf popping up.

MY QUESTIONS:

Is it to late into summer to spray a broadleaf killer on these spots?

Is it a bad time to fertilize?
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Old 07-06-2013, 08:27 PM
JBradshaw00 JBradshaw00 is offline
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Old 07-07-2013, 12:13 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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I don't know a lot about southern grasses but I don't think fertilizer will prevent brown and brittle... How in the world did southern grasses even survive before fertilizer became available to man???
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:32 PM
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mikesturf mikesturf is offline
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You mention "some sort of broadleaf" you need to spray. You don't know what it is? If you don't know what it is, how do you expect us to tell you what to use to kill it?

You ask us, is now a good time to fertilize?

Don't they teach any of this stuff when you take the North Carolina pesticide applicator's certification exam?
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Old 07-07-2013, 09:15 PM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
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I would say it is a good time to fertilize with 0-0-62 or 0-0-20 k-mag. The turf looks a little dry stressed. These blends can help relieve stress. You need to determine if drought stress (in any of its forms) are present. Your picture doesn't truly show this but its hue and appearance resembles it. Two applications 3 weeks apart for the fert. Once stress (if present) is relieved. Herbicide application should be safe. I believe that any healthy strong turf can withstand herbicide stress if applied right with the proper rate dictated by your current environmental conditions. It would also be best applied 4 days after mowing and allow 3 to 4 days after application to mow.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:31 PM
JBNC JBNC is offline
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I don't think it needs fertilizer. It looks like fescue and right now is not a good time to fertilize.

I doubt it's drought related since all of NC has had plenty of rain this summer. My guess is that the mower blade is dull as crap and is shredding the blades, causing harm and stress to the grass. May be some brown patch mixed in too as a result.

Can you get a close up shot??
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:38 AM
JBradshaw00 JBradshaw00 is offline
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I will try to get a close up shot, i have to swing by to measure for mulch there also.

aslo let me add that I'm not licensed to apply chemicals, so anything i can apply will be over the counter. This guy wants me to help him, he does not want to get mixed up with a big name company again.


Another important thing to note that I found out today: Before i began mowing this yard (mid may) it had went weeks and weeks without being mowed. He said it was 10-11" and he rented a mower and mowed it at 4.5" and bagged it. The yard has consistently been browning and getting very brittle by the week.

I cant speak for the previous mowers, but my blades stay sharp.

ANY help with this would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-13-2013, 04:01 AM
Victorsaur Victorsaur is offline
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Hello my fellow North Carolinian.

According to the somebody the cooperative extention calls the "guru" on fertilization in NC, now is NOT a good time to fertilize tall fescue, which is what I'm guessing you have there. He told me no fertilizer at all this time of the year. I really doubt that is a fertilization problem from the looks of it.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:12 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBradshaw00 View Post
... Another important thing to note that I found out today: Before i began mowing this yard (mid may) it had went weeks and weeks without being mowed. He said it was 10-11" and he rented a mower and mowed it at 4.5" and bagged it. The yard has consistently been browning and getting very brittle by the week. ...
There is your answer... it has the same response as a "Hayfield"... the stem of the plant get thicker and taller as the plant grows and the blade is now cut off and all that is left is stem and sheath... it regrows as time passes and there is nothing wrong... this will be an opportunity for weeds and possible death to individual grass plants,,, so advise the client that what he did is not the thing to do... be patient...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:28 AM
JohnnyRocker JohnnyRocker is offline
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Never ceases to amaze me regarding the questions from the "pros" on this site. I mean...if you really think you may dump fertilizer on a fescue lawn in July...should you even be doing it? Some are best to stick to their paper flyers with their cut-throat rates, not paying taxes, and lugging around their home-owner John Deere model mower they got at Home Depot behind their 1988 minivan.
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