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  #1  
Old 07-14-2013, 04:02 PM
NJgunner NJgunner is offline
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Location: toms river NJ
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Kentucky Bluegrass and fungicides.

I live in NJ and have kentucky blue grass. This time every year I get fungus due to high temps and humidity. What is a good fungicide to use? I have my mower on the highest setting and only water once to twice per week as needed. Last year I actually let it grow to 6-8 inches because it allowed me to water less.

I just put down my lesco allectus application, hopefully the nitrogen doesnt let it get too crazy. I know that I have to keep on aerating and dethatching in the fall and also some of the spots that get diseased need some topsoil added to sandy areas that dont retain water.

What other practices are good besides letting it grow to be longer and heavy infrequent waterings? Right now i water 45mins-1 hour per zone starting at 3am for once a week.

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Old 07-14-2013, 04:08 PM
happyuser happyuser is offline
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Bagging the clippings in part also leads to disease issues. Mulch the clipping, lime and like you said aerate and seed in September. Fungicides are expensive and only last 10-14 days. Start with good cultural acts only mow one third off the blade at a time, keep blade sharp, mow high and mulch clippings. in the spring and no disease next yr.
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2013, 04:15 PM
NJgunner NJgunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happyuser View Post
Bagging the clippings in part also leads to disease issues. Mulch the clipping, lime and like you said aerate and seed in September. Fungicides are expensive and only last 10-14 days. Start with good cultural acts only mow one third off the blade at a time, keep blade sharp, mow high and mulch clippings. in the spring and no disease next yr.

I always mulch the clippings and have a sharp blade and yes I lime in the spring. thanks
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Old 07-14-2013, 08:28 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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You say you get fungus. You need an experienced local owner operated professional to do your lawn treatments. You need to identify whatever disease you have been getting. Then get liquid fungicide sprayed on with professional equipment.
Red thread is particularly common at this time of year.
http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/downlo...strPubID=FS798
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:15 AM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
You say you get fungus. You need an experienced local owner operated professional to do your lawn treatments. You need to identify whatever disease you have been getting. Then get liquid fungicide sprayed on with professional equipment.
Red thread is particularly common at this time of year.
http://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/downlo...strPubID=FS798
Interesting that this publication mentions aeration in late summer and early Fall.....

In my area we can have hot weather after sprinklers are already blown out and irrigation districts for agriculture and some estate lawns are shutdown...and lawns get stressed.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:14 PM
NJgunner NJgunner is offline
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ttt to the top
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2013, 11:32 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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Originally Posted by NJgunner View Post
ttt to the top
I don't see any conclusive signs of disease in your picture. What disease do you think you're seeing?

A lot of guys who post here are obsessed with "fungus" and think that their lawn always has "fungus." I HATE that term! Turf diseases have specific names. If you don't know what the name is and you can't pinpoint specific symptoms, you don't have a "fungus"!

A lot of guys who post here are totally convinced that any time a lawn is not absolutely screaming green, it MUST have a fungus. Just because a lawn has brown spots, thinning, or poor color DOES NOT mean it has a "fungus"!

Learn the specific signs and symptoms of disease activity, as well as the conditions under which they form and the cultural practices you can implement that can reduce their incidence. This is the key to lawn disease management. Lots of guys would rater spray first and ask questions later. Be better than that.
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:03 AM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipster View Post
I don't see any conclusive signs of disease in your picture. What disease do you think you're seeing?

A lot of guys who post here are obsessed with "fungus" and think that their lawn always has "fungus." I HATE that term! Turf diseases have specific names. If you don't know what the name is and you can't pinpoint specific symptoms, you don't have a "fungus"!

A lot of guys who post here are totally convinced that any time a lawn is not absolutely screaming green, it MUST have a fungus. Just because a lawn has brown spots, thinning, or poor color DOES NOT mean it has a "fungus"!

Learn the specific signs and symptoms of disease activity, as well as the conditions under which they form and the cultural practices you can implement that can reduce their incidence. This is the key to lawn disease management. Lots of guys would rater spray first and ask questions later. Be better than that.
Excellent advice!
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:03 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Tall grass keep a lot of shade and hold moisture at its base for long periods during the day, especially 6-8 inches tall... too tall for a lawn... the grass flops over and kills its neighbors, creating patches of suffocated dying grass all over the place... I've seen it happen a lot over the years...
Next thing to look closely at,,, is soil drainage and retention...
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:12 AM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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Exactly right, Skipster. Well said.

I would add it is important to think about what is your threshold and, if a lawn has symptoms, what is the likelihood that a favorable change in the weather or a light application on nitrogen will bring you out of it. Adding N is the wrong thing to do for some diseases, of course. Start with identification and hopefully signs before symptoms.
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