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  #1  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:45 PM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Newbie-Summer Fertilizer Suggestion & Irrigation Time?

Hi all,

I am a newbie, looking for a nice green thick lawn.
I just bought a home on a 0.4 acre lot. The lawn was patchy in places and didn't look good after the New England winter, patchy bald areas, hard soil, bumpy!

In April I did a core aeration, top dressing with fertile topsoil, and overseeded the bald areas. I applied Lesco starter fertilizer to initiate the new grass.

Recently, I wasn't watering much, as I say im a newbie and trying to figure this out, but with the weather over the last two weeks the bald spots have reappeared and the garden is almost as bad as it was. A lot of the bald areas never took to the new seed, probably because I seeded a bit too late and didnt water enough....

So my question is, what is the best fertilizer I can use to feed my lawn and get it thick and green????

Also, how much time per station should I set my sprinklers to?

I am also planning a 3 weekly Jerry Baker summer lawn feed, ie beer can, detergent, ammonia, and corn oil/molasses...

Any thoughts or advice????

I had a colleague suggest Sustane, he didnt mention which one, good??
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  #2  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:45 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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The view of soil fertility is what you may want to rethink... the money involved of multiple applications of fertilizer for instant reults have driven the lawn industry to look at grass as something that will respond to the correct 'application' of one thing or another which is why these Jerry Baker things are actually taken seriously...
Soil fertility doesn't fluctuate much at all and your starter fert is probably still dissolving in the soil since you haven't had enough rain to use it up... more fert is not what your grass needs if water is lacking... keep the soil moist but not compacted with excess water and overseed again next month as the Summer cools into Fall...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2014, 07:49 AM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
The view of soil fertility is what you may want to rethink... the money involved of multiple applications of fertilizer for instant reults have driven the lawn industry to look at grass as something that will respond to the correct 'application' of one thing or another which is why these Jerry Baker things are actually taken seriously...
Soil fertility doesn't fluctuate much at all and your starter fert is probably still dissolving in the soil since you haven't had enough rain to use it up... more fert is not what your grass needs if water is lacking... keep the soil moist but not compacted with excess water and overseed again next month as the Summer cools into Fall...
Any suggestions as to how much to set the sprinkler times to for grass? ie 10/15/18/20 mins??? And I was going to use cyclic so it comes on every 3 days

Thinking that's enough??
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:20 AM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Here is some good info from UMass:https://extension.umass.edu/turf/man...hoots-vs-roots

As for irrigation; it's best to water deeply and infrequently. The idea is to get the soil wet down to the root system and then allow it time to dry out before watering again. Usually an inch of water is recommended for each watering. Every irrigation system is different. Measure yours by putting empty tuna cans on you lawn and time how long it takes to fill it up. How often you irrigate depends on soil type, sandy soil requires more frequent than clay soils. And my pet peeve is seeing irrigation during rainy days.
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  #5  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:54 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phasthound View Post
Here is some good info from UMass:https://extension.umass.edu/turf/man...hoots-vs-roots

As for irrigation; it's best to water deeply and infrequently. The idea is to get the soil wet down to the root system and then allow it time to dry out before watering again. Usually an inch of water is recommended for each watering. Every irrigation system is different. Measure yours by putting empty tuna cans on you lawn and time how long it takes to fill it up. How often you irrigate depends on soil type, sandy soil requires more frequent than clay soils. And my pet peeve is seeing irrigation during rainy days.
This type of watering only works if one's lawn has the ability to hold the water. Without knowing the gentlemans soil structure you are doing him a disservice telling him to water that way.
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:08 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by AI Inc View Post
This type of watering only works if one's lawn has the ability to hold the water. Without knowing the gentlemans soil structure you are doing him a disservice telling him to water that way.
That is why inspecting the rootzone is so important... when you see how an irrigation event actually settles into a rootzone then you know exactly what you've accomplished...
The next step will be to see how long the soil stays moist enough... that is when the weather, environment and soil texture really make make the difference and a physical inspection of the soil a few days later will show you exactly what is going on below the surface...
I keep at 2 prong plugger in the truck for just that purpose... nothing fancy necessary but a quick look at the top 4" of the turf is priceless...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #7  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:37 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetone View Post
Any suggestions as to how much to set the sprinkler times to for grass? ie 10/15/18/20 mins??? And I was going to use cyclic so it comes on every 3 days

Thinking that's enough??
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Irrigation should normally come on and be completed near the time of sunrise... Going out into your lawn and checking the soil for moisture is the best way by far to figure out what your soil needs in relation to your system...
As noted by others,,, there is no way to imagine a 'time' setting on the system itself...

If the water is not going deep into the root zone then you'll see that,,, when you inspect the soil after the water has had a chance to soak in...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #8  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:10 AM
wolfetone wolfetone is offline
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Any idea what this is? Its all over my lawn in the past week!

Can it be killed by weed-N-feed or by Weed-B-Gone, or does it have to be removed by hand?

Please let me know

Thanks guys
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:13 AM
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TPendagast TPendagast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetone View Post
Any idea what this is? Its all over my lawn in the past week!

Can it be killed by weed-N-feed or by Weed-B-Gone, or does it have to be removed by hand?

Please let me know

Thanks guys
well you could use a product called acclaim, but… I'm not sure non licensed people can get it.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:57 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetone View Post
Any idea what this is? Its all over my lawn in the past week!

Can it be killed by weed-N-feed or by Weed-B-Gone, or does it have to be removed by hand?

Please let me know

Thanks guys
Don't worry about it. It will die off late sept. Be sure to reseed early sept or even late aug so when it does die off it will be filling in.

As far as how long to water you need to take a few things into the picture. amount of sun , soil structure and what size nozzles are in your sprinklers.
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