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  #1  
Old 05-11-2005, 01:05 AM
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aclassic aclassic is offline
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larger pulley on tranny

so i just recently inherited a yard machines (POS) tractor w/ a 16.5 hp briggs. its free and the hours are low. my grandpa bought it and used it like twice, he thought it was too fast.
i want to pull an aerator behind it, but i want to maximize my power to pull the thing. it has 7 speeds which i dont need, so i was wondering if i could put a larger pulley on the transmission from the drive belt as a gear reduction type of thing. would this work? would it give me more torque? more pulling power?
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Old 05-11-2005, 09:32 AM
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Smalltimer1 Smalltimer1 is offline
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Unfortunately, the 7 spd. in the MTD tractors are junk......they are very bad about wearing out the top half of the housing around the axle. The 7 spd. is a vari-drive and I have 3 of those, 1 dead, 1 almost dead, and another that might be on the way out sometime soon as well.
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2004 Ford F-250 XL RC/LB 4x2 Power Stroke Diesel
2010 John Deere Z710A 48" cut
1999 John Deere GT-235/54" deck
1985 John Deere 212 w/38" deck
1983 John Deere 420 w/54" hydraulic front blade
1974 John Deere 140, 54" hydraulic blade, 3pt. hitch, tandem disc, plow, 48" deck
1971 John Deere 112, 38" deck, all original, down for engine rebuild.
1967 IH Cub Cadet 124 w/creeper box, disc, plow
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Old 05-11-2005, 12:13 PM
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aclassic aclassic is offline
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thanks for the heads up,
what can i do to make this rear end a little stronger? swap w/ a deere? can you swap rear ends? i'm kinda counting on this thing to start my expansoin into aeration and i'd rather it not be a complete piece of crap.
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Old 05-11-2005, 03:28 PM
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Again, unfortunately MTD's trannies are not compatible with any other manufacturer's.

It's not like it will break fast, but working it hard (such as heavy pulling) will cause it to die within a season or 2. I'd just make sure the next 'work' tractor you get has a tough rear. The older Craftsmans have a Dana-Spicer rear end that is pretty good for that type work if you're looking on the cheap side.

If you want one that will last forever, look for an old International Harvester-Cub Cadet or John Deere garden tractor with the 3 speed or 4 speed manuals. However these machines still hold their value extremely well, so you'd be lucky to get a running JD 210/212/214/216 for less than $750.

The 3 speeds will hold up fine to the pulling. If you get heavier then look at one of the 4 spd. units in the 200 series JD's and early 70's model Cub Cadets both of which have a granny low 1st.
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2004 Ford F-250 XL RC/LB 4x2 Power Stroke Diesel
2010 John Deere Z710A 48" cut
1999 John Deere GT-235/54" deck
1985 John Deere 212 w/38" deck
1983 John Deere 420 w/54" hydraulic front blade
1974 John Deere 140, 54" hydraulic blade, 3pt. hitch, tandem disc, plow, 48" deck
1971 John Deere 112, 38" deck, all original, down for engine rebuild.
1967 IH Cub Cadet 124 w/creeper box, disc, plow
1947 Economy/Power King Tractor S/N 590, fully restored.

Certified John Deere Technician
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Old 05-13-2005, 10:28 AM
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aclassic aclassic is offline
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hmmm, well hopefully i can limp along here the first year or two w/ this thing. now that we've established that the rear end sucks on this thing, back to my original question of do you think i could find a larger pulley (hardware store has basic pulleys) that would act as a gear reducer?
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Old 05-14-2005, 01:21 AM
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Your local MTD service center (they would sell White, Cub Cadet, and other low end brands) should have all sorts of pulleys. What you would be looking for is a keyed one that is a larger diameter than the one you already have. I'm not sure of the dimensions, as I haven't had an MTD rearend out to look at in a while.
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2004 Ford F-250 XL RC/LB 4x2 Power Stroke Diesel
2010 John Deere Z710A 48" cut
1999 John Deere GT-235/54" deck
1985 John Deere 212 w/38" deck
1983 John Deere 420 w/54" hydraulic front blade
1974 John Deere 140, 54" hydraulic blade, 3pt. hitch, tandem disc, plow, 48" deck
1971 John Deere 112, 38" deck, all original, down for engine rebuild.
1967 IH Cub Cadet 124 w/creeper box, disc, plow
1947 Economy/Power King Tractor S/N 590, fully restored.

Certified John Deere Technician
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  #7  
Old 05-14-2005, 04:47 PM
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Travis Followell Travis Followell is offline
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Their should be a adjustment on the gear lever that would allow you to slow the machine down if you adjust it the correct way however if its one that has the parking brake on the gear lever adjusting it may not allow the brake to work correctly.
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Old 05-14-2005, 05:06 PM
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aclassic aclassic is offline
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i dont really care much about slowing the machine down, although i have no need for it to be fast. i just want more power, and thought reducing the gearing would give me more bang for the engine hp.
also, about that bad rearend, other than not pulling the aerator, how can i preserve it to make it last a couple seasons.
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  #9  
Old 05-14-2005, 11:00 PM
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Smalltimer1 Smalltimer1 is offline
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Change the fluid in it once a season. It should run a 75W90 weight gear oil in it.
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2004 Ford F-250 XL RC/LB 4x2 Power Stroke Diesel
2010 John Deere Z710A 48" cut
1999 John Deere GT-235/54" deck
1985 John Deere 212 w/38" deck
1983 John Deere 420 w/54" hydraulic front blade
1974 John Deere 140, 54" hydraulic blade, 3pt. hitch, tandem disc, plow, 48" deck
1971 John Deere 112, 38" deck, all original, down for engine rebuild.
1967 IH Cub Cadet 124 w/creeper box, disc, plow
1947 Economy/Power King Tractor S/N 590, fully restored.

Certified John Deere Technician
Reply With Quote
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