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  #11  
Old 02-18-2006, 12:04 PM
dtelawncare dtelawncare is offline
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Thanks topsites, I haven't thought about using my small chainsaw to cut the timbers. I had panned on using rebar through. I was also thinking I will need to put a couple nails in each section to hold them together. My total length included the timbers being two high. Will I need to nail them together.
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  #12  
Old 02-18-2006, 12:17 PM
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M RASCOE&SONS M RASCOE&SONS is offline
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i would charge him time and material including disposal of the old stuff .
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2006, 06:16 PM
LB1234 LB1234 is offline
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I like to tie mine together on the inside with galvanized brackets and lag screws. Although you are limited to the angles...zero, ninety, and I believe 45. DON'T forget to add in the cost of rebar. 1/2 (#2 I think) rebar 20' costs me around 10 bucks from the lumber yard...if I remember correctly. Figure somewhere between 36-40" per 'stake'. I like to place stakes at every end and every four feet in the middle.

MAKE SURE YOU MARK OUT all utilities, underground drainage, ANYTHING the homeowner ran (out to a shed, pool, etc.). You can do some serious damage to yourself and to there property if you just 'nail em in'.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2006, 06:37 PM
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sheshovel sheshovel is offline
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If you put them together like this you won't have to use any brackets.Most places that sell rebar will cut it for you for about 50cents a cut

Last edited by sheshovel; 11-19-2006 at 10:14 PM.
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  #15  
Old 02-19-2006, 06:56 PM
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LANDSCAPER30 LANDSCAPER30 is offline
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Most important is the base. Get it PERFECT and be extremely picky when you buy the timbers----no dog legs. I too put my first course down with rebar 32-36" pieces. Then EACH seam has a BRACKET. Get the big ones. Each timber then is tied by a 12" spike. Some people prefer screws, I was taught to do it with spikes and have ever since. Leave no running seams.
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  #16  
Old 02-19-2006, 08:35 PM
LB1234 LB1234 is offline
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Sheshovel,

I have this tool that cuts rebar very easily. Not sure what the name of it is. It is as old as dirt and was given to me by another contractor who no longer needed it.

Basically its a big knife inside a circular frame with a 6' bar attached to it. Slip the rebar through it and pull down on the bar...walla its cut. pretty simple and easy. Saw it today in northen tool magazine for about 40 bucks.

BTW, I do the rebar and stake method as well. I don't think the orginal poster is looking to stack them though, right? Just as a landscape border. Either way, that is a lot of work with some real heavy lifting. Lots of luck with it.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2006, 08:48 PM
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sheshovel sheshovel is offline
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It's called a REBAR CUTTER AND THE ONES i HAVE SEEN COST ABOUT $400.00 OR MORE
sorry this new keyboard keeps putting the cap lock on for no reason!Driving me crazy!
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2006, 09:28 PM
LB1234 LB1234 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sheshovel
It's called a REBAR CUTTER AND THE ONES i HAVE SEEN COST ABOUT $400.00 OR MORE
sorry this new keyboard keeps putting the cap lock on for no reason!Driving me crazy!

JEEZ!! HAPPENING TO ME TOO!!

Sorry for asking a 'stupid' question.

I guess we can't all be as good and smart as you oh great one.
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  #19  
Old 02-20-2006, 01:05 AM
dtelawncare dtelawncare is offline
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Thanks sheshovel. I had planned on overlapping the timbers. A couple of the beds will have several angles. How hard will it be to overlap the angles?
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