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Old 04-22-2006, 11:47 AM
R&J Lawn R&J Lawn is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Idaho
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Quick 36 clutch

We have and operate 2 Quick 36 MarkII- I will add before I start they are a great cutting and running machine. Only 1 major problem, I have gone through Clutches on both machines, Machine 1- 3 clutches in 1 year, aprox 700 hrs on machine, Machine 2- 2 Clutches aprox 600 hrs on machine- both were bought at the same time, It seems the splines on the metal friction plate are stripping off.... Has anyone had this problem, if so what can we do to prevent this??? Gary has taken great care of us, and do not get me wrong, These machine are a vital and reliable part of our mowing crews, Easy to use and operate, just trying to prevent pre mature clutch failure!!!
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Old 04-22-2006, 04:21 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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At what RPM are the crews engaging the PTO ? I have seen people mowing along wide open kill the PTO when going across a dirt area or driveway once past kick it back in at full throttle. This is harder on any style clutch.
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Old 04-23-2006, 10:49 PM
R&J Lawn R&J Lawn is offline
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I actually thought the same thing initially, As per the Owners manual- Engage at full RPM, As of right now I have the operators engage at lowest possible and disengage at lowest also! we have been doing this for most of the machines life, definatly saves on belts, but clutches???
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Old 04-23-2006, 11:08 PM
lucforce lucforce is offline
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Yes, the manuals want high rpm clutching.
This is good for a new clutch that needs to be "burnished in." After that you want low rpm clutching-always.
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Old 04-23-2006, 11:13 PM
lucforce lucforce is offline
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I use the automobile analogy. Your small engine is turning, say 3600 rpm. The manual says to clutch at this rpm-full throttle.

You car redlines at, say 6000 rpm.

Would you clutch your car and take off from a stand-still at:
A. low rpm to get car moving
B. 3600 rpm
C. 6000 rpm
D. hold pedal to floor until max rpm is achieved
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