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  #11  
Old 08-09-2007, 11:34 AM
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neversatisfiedj neversatisfiedj is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hampstead,MD
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You got it. You put that filter fabric there and you will lose NO sand. Remember your border"soldier" bricks will be thicker to make up the difference between you field 2 3/8" brick and 3/4" sand.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2007, 10:42 AM
senatorcongressman senatorcongressman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WDC
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The sketch I drew didn't show it, but I am using 4x8 clay pavers (2 1/4 thick, no lugs, Glen-Gery 26-HB). My plan previously was to bed the border course (soldier) in mortar which would elevate it enough to allow for a 1/2 - 3/4" sand bed in the field. Weep holes in the mortar bed every 4 bricks. Using "glue" I suppose I could lay the border course on edge (soldier or double sailor) but that means a 1 3/4" sand bed. On the other hand, this path slopes quite a bit, with steps on either end, and I still worry about sand washout along the run. The joint sand in the sloping path I did in the backyard has mostly washed out to the face of the pavers on the downhill side. Granted the joints are a little on the big side and filled with concrete sand, (this is before I leared about poly-sand from folks @this site). I'll be re-laying this in the fall or spring with tighter joints and poly-sand.

Then again I may just wet-lay the whole thing. Thanks for all your hints.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2007, 03:54 PM
mrusk mrusk is offline
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I do not know why you guys are worried about sand wash out? If you are so worried, glue the boarder on then put some concrete on the outside of it.
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  #14  
Old 08-11-2007, 11:26 AM
LandscapeMember LandscapeMember is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: NJ
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Placing Paver over existing concrete

Thank you for the replies and ideas. SenatorCongessman made a great sketch. I actually have to extend one area about 10 more feet and make a small wall. I will use the glue method as detailed in the sketch.

Do you think my quote of $8.50-$9.00 is fair? This will be a great job for October.
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