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  #21  
Old 09-05-2007, 04:27 PM
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DillonsLawnCare DillonsLawnCare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric D View Post
Ok topsites,

Iím falling for the bait! The never ending debate on Premium versus Regular gas.

Here are some key points to keep in mind:
  1. Premium fuel sometimes is worse fuel than regular. It resists knock because it's harder to ignite than lower-octane fuels. For us, this means harder to start!
  2. The Federal Trade Commission, in a consumer notice, emphasizes: "In most cases, using a higher-octane gasoline than your owner's manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner." The same holds true for lawn cutting equipment.

Do as you may, itís your right, but you are eating at your profits for no real benefit.

Hey, just my humble opinion!

Eric D


well, why do people sell this higher octane fuel if it has no purpose. why do they have 3 different gases when they only need one from what your saying. what is the purpose of super unleaded or mid-grade unleaded if it all just burns the same...???
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  #22  
Old 09-05-2007, 08:43 PM
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Eric D Eric D is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
well, why do people sell this higher octane fuel if it has no purpose.
Well, how about money.

Eric D
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  #23  
Old 09-05-2007, 08:55 PM
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DillonsLawnCare DillonsLawnCare is offline
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besides that!
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-2009 Scag Wildcat 26hp LC Kawasaki 52" Velocity Plus Deck
-1999 Scag SWZ Hydro Walk-Behind 17hp Kawasaki 52" Deck
-T230 Shindaiwa Trimmer w/ Speed Feed
-223L Husqvarna Trimmer
-Stihl KM110R w/ Long Reach Hedge Trimmer
-EBZ7100 RedMax Blower
-145BT Husqvarna Blower
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2007, 10:11 PM
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Big Red Ferris Big Red Ferris is offline
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put a carb kit in it and put new seals on the intake been there done that
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  #25  
Old 09-05-2007, 10:31 PM
topsites topsites is offline
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I'm not arguing that Wawa super might be worse than Amoco regular, nor am I guaranteeing an engine won't have problems, the stupid debate can go on and on much like with the folks who never pay... It's not about the issue at hand anymore, now it becomes some endless debate about the ins and outs and the ifs ands and the buts, when and where does the argument stop?

I really don't care if Lco's want to run recycled motor oil through an engine, but when a mower doesn't start and an Lco has NO experience rebuilding carburetors at $200 a fix, perhaps it isn't such an unprofitable idea to run a clean fuel in the first place.

I'm saying if you buy the nice stuff then chances are you'll have less problems, pay at the pump or pay with your arm when it doesn't start, even starter cords are a pita to replace and 50 pulls are sure to put some wear on that. Back in the days when I ran regular I replaced a cord it seemed like monthly, not the same machine but between all of them... I got so sick and tired of stupid ropes breaking, but now with super it takes LESS strength to start it and I break 1 rope a year on average, maybe two, every single machine of mine except the Z is recoil start, I am sure I have at least a dozen recoilers between all of them, at least.

It's not a HUGE difference either, 30-50 more cents per gallon for a cleaner fuel, impeccably clean it isn't, I'm sure a $20 drops fast this way, yes. But if small differences are not important then why do Lco's bother to use 90% germ rate seed instead of KY 31, the principle is the same, guys like me care about the end result and we ARE all about that.

But either way you pay, profit gone at the pump, or profit gone in downtime and repairs.
It really takes an hour when a rope breaks, how you look at it, by the time that stupid thing is back together IF you had the parts handy I guarantee it sets you back at least 20 minutes, there's $20 that way, in one fell swoop.
The filters last longer, oh it's only a dollar, yeah plus the 10-15 minutes it takes to replace it, another $20.
So I just pay at the pump and be done with it.

Last edited by topsites; 09-05-2007 at 10:40 PM.
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  #26  
Old 09-07-2007, 05:11 PM
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DillonsLawnCare DillonsLawnCare is offline
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yeah, i wasnt arguing, but i do run premium fuel in all my equipment.
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1997 Ford F-150
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-2009 Scag Wildcat 26hp LC Kawasaki 52" Velocity Plus Deck
-1999 Scag SWZ Hydro Walk-Behind 17hp Kawasaki 52" Deck
-T230 Shindaiwa Trimmer w/ Speed Feed
-223L Husqvarna Trimmer
-Stihl KM110R w/ Long Reach Hedge Trimmer
-EBZ7100 RedMax Blower
-145BT Husqvarna Blower
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  #27  
Old 09-07-2007, 07:21 PM
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Eric D Eric D is offline
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Topsites,

I don’t believe it is a “stupid debate”. What you do is totally up to you. But others read these threads and I think they deserve to here the facts as an opposed to someone’s feelings. Your assumption as I understand it, if you pay more money you get cleaner fuel and that premium fuel starts better then regular. Both of your assumptions are wrong. If need be I can quote the requirements, but in short, fuel is highly regulated and has to meet very stringent test. Many years back before fuel injectors and catalytic converters, and double walled storage tanks there may have been some truth to fuel brands and grades being different qualities. Yes, there maybe a bad station here and there and bad fuel could be part of it, but much less likely then ten to twenty years ago.

Eric D
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  #28  
Old 09-07-2007, 08:15 PM
topsites topsites is offline
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I never said it was a debate, I said it was an argument.
And I also said I'm done with it, I am glad you run regular, please keep running it,
thank you.
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  #29  
Old 09-07-2007, 08:38 PM
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txgrassguy txgrassguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DillonsLawnCare View Post
ok, i went out to check the carb, and it DOESNT fully close when the choke is in place. its fully opened when the mower is in low speed and partly closed when in fast speed and it doesnt change from that spot when in choke.

if i dont get this fixed for a month or two, will it hurt my mower? should i take it in right away???? thanks
Dude, you can repair this yourself - very easily.
Simply locate the throttle cable, follow it down to the carburetor, and where the clamp that holds the cable in position is where you will make the adjustment.
With the air cleaner off so you can see into the carburetor throat, loosen the clamp and with the throttle set in the choke position, move the cable until the choke plate fully seats. Then tighten the clamp and you are done.
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