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  #1  
Old 08-31-2007, 02:06 PM
john_incircuit john_incircuit is offline
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B&S replacement engine

Hit a stump with my John Deere JS -63 walk behind, B&S Intek engine Model 121602 0529. Crankshaft is now bent; mower is approx 2 years old.

This is just my backup mower with over 300hrs, need an affordable replacement engine.

The B&S replacement engine catalog does not list my “0529” model number

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mis...eplacement.pdf


The parts list from Briggs (IPL Form Number - MS2143 ) lists that the crankshaft on my “0529” model is also used on “0525” and the “0349” model.

My question is how reliable are those IPL lists from B&S? Is it a fairly save bet that when I order a “0349” model, this thing will fit?
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:04 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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I'd like to tell you YES, but there are other possible issues. Some may matter and others may not-
Not a complete inclusive/exclusive list here, but you get the idea-

Is it self propelled? Notice the different sumps.
Flywheel brake?
Primer or choke.
Throttle cable orientation.
Direction that the recoil start points.
Paint color.

IOW, you would basically have to compare all the "pertinent" issues between the 2 engines.

BTW, the IPL's are pretty much the only thing to use for reference other than a hands on comparison.
Edit-
I did notice different governor springs, but those could be swapped.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 08-31-2007 at 03:10 PM.
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Old 08-31-2007, 03:27 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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Add- these ARE differences between the 2 engines-
Control bracket (affects throttle set up?)
Blower housing
Spring−Brake & Brake (probably doesn't matter, but????)
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Old 08-31-2007, 07:51 PM
johnp900 johnp900 is offline
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just straighten the crank, check the flywheel key & get back to work.
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  #5  
Old 08-31-2007, 09:42 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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John, This is the EXACT replacement engine per my Briggs dealer's site;


ORIGINAL ENGINE
Model Type Crankshaft
121602 0529 691456


REPLACEMENT ENGINE
Model Type
121602 0625 3250 rpm All


SHORT BLOCK
Part Number
692748

The short block from Briggs is $150.70 list.

But, The "0525" and the "0349" have the same part number crankshaft and short block.

Sooo, Either of these engines will bolt right up to your unit but you will have to change what ever external parts that are different from your old engine as Bill stated.

Oh, I don't know if you seen the one below but looks like a deal.....


http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/...+Start+Takeoff


Straightening a bent crank can be hazardous to your's and other's health.....
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Old 09-01-2007, 12:08 AM
john_incircuit john_incircuit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Restrorob View Post
.... Oh, I don't know if you seen the one below but looks like a deal.....

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/...+Start+Takeoff


Straightening a bent crank can be hazardous to your's and other's health.....

Yes, that's the one I had in mind. $110 sure beats the $400 list price. Those Intek would be good engines, if they had a real air filter. We mulch, and the blow-outs usually clogs the filter in no time. At least for me, it is virtually impossible to remove the air filter without letting some dirt fall into the carburetor throat.


Thanks for all the help!!
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  #7  
Old 09-09-2007, 03:44 PM
john_incircuit john_incircuit is offline
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The engine swap worked!! $110 engine from the "Small Engine Warehouse". Thanks for all your help.

It took me a little bit to turn the new "0349" model into the John Deere specific "0529", but the motor is running good now (after hours of troubleshooting, before I noticed that the new metal hood would shorten out the kill wire on the ignition model)

I have two quick questions:

-- I replaced the ignition coil and made sure that the new coil has the same gap to the flywheel. Is there an alignment procedure for the "left - right" adjustment of the ignition coil, to advance / delay the timing? Couldn't find anything on this, or do I only have to worry about the gap to the flywheel?


-- The engine is spec'ed out for 3250 rpm. Do I adjust the rpm with or without the blades mounted?


Again, thanks for all you help, I'm glad my old JS 63 is running again!
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Old 09-09-2007, 04:07 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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John,

All you have to worry about is the coil to flywheel air gap, Set the RPM with the blade on ready to mow.

Glad to hear you got it running on the cheap side....

Cya
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2007, 04:33 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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Glad to hear you got it running on "the cheap".!
What parts did you actually have to swap?
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  #10  
Old 09-09-2007, 09:56 PM
john_incircuit john_incircuit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Glad to hear you got it running on "the cheap".!
What parts did you actually have to swap?

Only the bracket that operates the kill switch was completely different, plus the new carburetor had a variable speed setup. I changed it, as it just would not run smooth.

The metal hood was slightly different, I didn't realize this at first, the new metal hood did shorten out the (old) kill switch assembly.

The small engine warehouse folks told me that the engine has 5 hrs or less on it. I agree, the spark plug looked like new, no carbon what so ever on the exhaust, airfilter was like new.

Looks like I'll get another 300 hrs out of this one.
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