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  #11  
Old 09-12-2007, 11:46 PM
Louisianagames Louisianagames is offline
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Just curios if I can pull the head (wich I can ) and send the heads and have new guides put in .
Thanks,
La.
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  #12  
Old 09-13-2007, 01:08 AM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louisianagames View Post
Just curios if I can pull the head (wich I can ) and send the heads and have new guides put in .
Thanks,
La.
OK, the full quote from my advice----
"I suggest you download the service manual and study it a bit before you start-"

You can try, but since the guides aren't in the head, you may subject yourself to an embarrassing experience at the machine shop!
Look at page 79 in the manual!
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  #13  
Old 09-13-2007, 01:21 AM
Louisianagames Louisianagames is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
OK, the full quote from my advice----
"I suggest you download the service manual and study it a bit before you start-"

You can try, but since the guides aren't in the head, you may subject yourself to an embarrassing experience at the machine shop!
Look at page 79 in the manual!


I did page 79 is the electrical section

I'm on Page 93 Section 9. Dissassembly.
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  #14  
Old 09-13-2007, 01:44 AM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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I was looking at the vertical manual. My mistake. I won't bother you anymore!
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  #15  
Old 09-13-2007, 02:19 AM
Louisianagames Louisianagames is offline
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No bother at all.. I'm here to learn.
I have good engine knowledge..just not on a kohler or some smaller engines.

Any input is great!
From what I see in the manual I call a barrel/jug the head..This is where I thought it was located..
I can get the head and jug off no problem. plenty of room.
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  #16  
Old 09-13-2007, 06:29 AM
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Eric D Eric D is offline
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Louisianagames,

First off, Bill Kapaun has given you all you should need to trouble shoot the issues. Putting the in to a reply back to Bill after helping you is taken as an insult, at least to me it is. Nontheless, I'll try to give you a little more advise and see what you do with it.

First and far most you should apologize to Bill.

You seem to be focused on valve guides, why? From the information you have left in previous postings I believe you are barking up the wrong tree.

More then likely the primary path for oil getting into the combustion chamber is passed the piston rings. You mentioned that the compression was 100 psi. What type of compression test did you run? Was it a motoring test or differential? If it was a motoring test, 100 psi is low. You also mentioned that you could feel air out the breather. Was this with the engine running or motoring or when you did the compression test? Air out the breather vent normally indicates leakage past the piston rings. Bottom line, from way out here in web world, best guess would be worn piston rings.

Your options,
  1. do nothing and use the mower with the smoke
  2. replace the piston rings and hone the cylinder walls (this is assuming the piston and cylinder are ok)
  3. add heaver grade engine oil (40 or 50).

Best of luck,

Eric D
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  #17  
Old 09-13-2007, 11:21 AM
Louisianagames Louisianagames is offline
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Bill accept My appologies as not intended as a flame just a correction and a little smiley guy saying no.

Eric D thanks for the push in the directiion of the rings.
The only reason I'm so curious of the valve guide, is that I can look in and see the valve is gummed up with oil. I was trying to prepair Myself with what steps to get the guides to the correct facillity and have them replaced, or can I do iy Myself.

I'll pull it down and inspect it. If I get confused, I'll post a picture and hope I'll stay on the right track to getting the smoke out My eyes..

Thanks guys,
You Rock!
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2007, 06:19 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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Everything is cool!
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  #19  
Old 09-13-2007, 07:16 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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*crickets chirping*





Lg,

Bill and Eric have steered you in the right direction.....

This is the only thing I'd like to add;

Quote:
I can look in and see the valve is gummed up with oil.
Seeing this is considered normal on a engine burning excessive oil due to worn rings, It does not mean the valve guides are worn/bad.

Once you get the valve springs removed you can check how bad the valves rock side to side in the guides, If it is excessive then replace them but not because of the oil/carbon build-up.

Just a pointer on re-sealing the cylinder jug to the block;

I use nothing but Loctite gasket eliminator for ANY non-gasket sealing surfaces. I do not apply a bead but apply a thin coat over the whole surface area applying to my finger first then smooth evenly.

Doing this assures ME that I WILL get a good leak free seal.
In a job shop there's nothing worse than having to do a job twice.

Good Luck with your repair.....
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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  #20  
Old 09-13-2007, 08:19 PM
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Bill Kapaun Bill Kapaun is offline
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"The only reason I'm so curious of the valve guide, is that I can look in and see the valve is gummed up with oil."

Which valve? Intake or exhaust?
If exhaust, more likely rings.
If intake, especially down the stem, maybe the guide and/or the seal is shot. On "old" engines, the seals tend to go bad from age/use. IMO, a likely "contributor" to the oil burning. How much?????
I'd hate to see you spend a bunch of money for valve work, it the cylinder needs to be bored etc.
Since you have the heads & cylinders off, I'd mic the cylinder for wear, ovalness, taper etc..
See what you have in the "important" (expensive) area first.
Even if it can get by with new rings, I know I'd probably want to put "fresh" bearings in it too.
Valves & guides can get expensive, especially if you have to have them done.
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