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  #11  
Old 02-11-2008, 11:31 AM
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txgrassguy txgrassguy is offline
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Simple, aerify the crap out of the field, heavily topdress with straight sand and repeat whenever possible.
After the topdressing drag a piece of chain link fence with weight uniformly spread across the leading edge.
Will destroy the cores and distribute the topdressing quite well.
Done it for years.
After about three cycles the turf should respond better each time.
Also, after the aerification and before the topdressing remember to fertilize as well.
I used this process on a minimal budget athletic complex at a local municipality with great results.
The city, in their infinite wisdom, thought they could do it less cheaply and in less than one year royally screwed these fields up.
Now they want me back - but this time they have to pay$$
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2008, 11:03 PM
golfguy golfguy is offline
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Try avoiding the ryegrass for this situation. Rye does not handle abuse well especially from football cleats. A 3 way mix or straight KY Blue mix would likely fit this bill much better.
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  #13  
Old 02-16-2008, 09:42 AM
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txgrassguy txgrassguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfguy View Post
Try avoiding the ryegrass for this situation. Rye does not handle abuse well especially from football cleats. A 3 way mix or straight KY Blue mix would likely fit this bill much better.
Pay attention to where he is reporting from - southern California.
Also annual ryegrass is the least costly type of C3 seed for over seeding C4 host turf. The 3-way mixes are much more expensive in addition to their marked propensity towards dollar spot and patch diseases when dying off in warmer temps. The endophytes in the annual ryegrass greatly simplify transition.
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  #14  
Old 06-27-2008, 08:17 AM
grassman83 grassman83 is offline
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Aerate, Aerate, Aerate.

If you have very little money all you need to do to see improvement is aerate and put out milorganite. I guarantee you will see improvement. If you can topdress, then do it. DO NOT PUT MATERIAL WITH CLAY IN IT ON YOUR FIELD. If you think it doesnt drain now, put some clay on it, you will see puddles.
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2008, 10:46 PM
steve18974 steve18974 is offline
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Location: Oakford , PA
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Honestly if you cant get football off the field your pretty much killing yourself .

let me guess all the worst areas are between the hash marks ?

I just spent last weekend with 5 guys doing divot repair on our Main Field which ony see Soccer and nothing else 20 yds of topsoil 200 lbs of seed and 8 hours (and a few beers for good measure ) we removed all equipment from the field and locked the gate . We would have done this earlier but we just finished up for the spring , Hosting the USASA Region 1 Finals . You might be better off seeing if there is a possibility of creating another field for the soccer program.... just by the nature of football the field is going to get torn up by mid season .... and playing soccer on a big bumpy field is horrible . to play and to watch . I feel your pain I also Coach and Still Play .

silly question why are you guys using rye grass in southern california ? I thought rye was a "Northern " turf . we are in PA just north of Philly We hit our fields with rye in the spring and 50 rye 50 blue mix in the fall . and when ever we can and there is money available we broadcast seed the hardest hit areas ....

As for the sprinkler problems .... Sprinkler repairs are not hard .... Ask your maintenance guy if he can walk you through repairs ..... he might be glad to have someone help him out ....

ALSO ..... ARERATE AERATE AERATE especially the middle of the field !

just my thoughts I feel your pain !
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  #16  
Old 07-13-2008, 09:23 PM
greynosa greynosa is offline
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Location: Palos Verdes Ca
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soccer field help

Hey Coach, I would like to invite you to take a look at our field. And share some ideas. I am also in so cal and i had the same problem. Please respond to my message I would like to help you.
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