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  #11  
Old 03-13-2008, 10:23 PM
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DBL DBL is offline
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looks like an awesome truck you got whats the gvw?...is there any major advantages between a hooklift and roll off?
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2008, 11:03 PM
ConstSvcs ConstSvcs is offline
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Originally Posted by DBL View Post
looks like an awesome truck you got whats the gvw?...is there any major advantages between a hooklift and roll off?
19,500# GVW The Switch-n-Go hoist system is much less expensive and lighter in weight than a hook lift unit.

The downside is that the S-n-G is slower at swaping bodies than a hooklift.
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2008, 12:19 AM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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You have double the lifting power with the switch and go over the hooklift. A hooklift doesn't have the dumping power and it doesn't have the pulling power.

Hooklifts are heavy you have all that extra weight of a swing arm etc.

The switch and go is light but strong that doesn't eat up the payload.

It may take longer to swap out bodies who cares you want the power when your pulling on a bin that will make the front tires bounce off the ground.

When I ran conventional hoist tandem axle the front end would bounce up and down when pulling on a heavy can.

I have watched a local guy with a 9000lb capacity hooklift on a F-450 the thing was sucking wind pulling on a box with 5000lbs in it.

Your cab over will easily carry the weight it is stopping the weight is the problem. You will probably want to put the best brake pads possible to maximize the smaller brakes.
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2008, 06:55 AM
ConstSvcs ConstSvcs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Rat View Post
You have double the lifting power with the switch and go over the hooklift. A hooklift doesn't have the dumping power and it doesn't have the pulling power.

Hooklifts are heavy you have all that extra weight of a swing arm etc.

The switch and go is light but strong that doesn't eat up the payload.

It may take longer to swap out bodies who cares you want the power when your pulling on a bin that will make the front tires bounce off the ground.

When I ran conventional hoist tandem axle the front end would bounce up and down when pulling on a heavy can.

I have watched a local guy with a 9000lb capacity hooklift on a F-450 the thing was sucking wind pulling on a box with 5000lbs in it.

Your cab over will easily carry the weight it is stopping the weight is the problem. You will probably want to put the best brake pads possible to maximize the smaller brakes.
Agreed! Lucky enough this truck is equipped with air/hydraulic service brakes and and a Jake Brake
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Isuzu FRR w/Switch-n-Go
John Deere CT 322
Turbo Turf 300E hydroseeder
Harley Mx8H
FFC Preparator
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2008, 08:05 AM
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DBL DBL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Rat View Post
You have double the lifting power with the switch and go over the hooklift. A hooklift doesn't have the dumping power and it doesn't have the pulling power.

Hooklifts are heavy you have all that extra weight of a swing arm etc.

The switch and go is light but strong that doesn't eat up the payload.

It may take longer to swap out bodies who cares you want the power when your pulling on a bin that will make the front tires bounce off the ground.

When I ran conventional hoist tandem axle the front end would bounce up and down when pulling on a heavy can.

I have watched a local guy with a 9000lb capacity hooklift on a F-450 the thing was sucking wind pulling on a box with 5000lbs in it.

Your cab over will easily carry the weight it is stopping the weight is the problem. You will probably want to put the best brake pads possible to maximize the smaller brakes.
that was a pretty good explanation for me
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  #16  
Old 03-14-2008, 06:14 PM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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I have drove conventional rolloff hoists I know what they can do. I have had the reeving cable snap before the hoist powered out. With a hooklift you need a larger hoist for the load you want to pull on. Larger hooklift more weight less payload. The only benefit I see a hooklift for is tight confined spaces where you can't lift rails all the way up.

If you get a heavy bin and put a snatch block on the switch and go you would probably rip the hook off the bin

The only thing you have to watch with a conventional rail hoist is pulling the bin on straight. I have had bins with bent long sills so they didn't want to pull up the rails properly. If your not watching the bins long sills can hop over the hoist rails and your in trouble. I had bins where the side has blown out pulling the bin on and looking in the mirror and something is wobbling on the side the bin side has pretty well broke away from the bin floor.

Lots of fun
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2008, 08:51 AM
allinearth allinearth is offline
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Is it true that the dump angle on a hook lift is not very high. If I were to buy one I would want to use for a dump truck as well.
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2008, 01:37 PM
Gravel Rat Gravel Rat is offline
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The way the hooklifts lift cylinders are they really don't have the lifting power. It depends on what hooklift you get for dump angle a single pivot is horrible a double pivot is better but more weight.
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  #19  
Old 03-25-2008, 08:13 PM
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JohnnyRoyale JohnnyRoyale is offline
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Hope your not planning to fill that 14 yd can with dirt or gravel-nice truck nonetheless.
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  #20  
Old 03-25-2008, 09:59 PM
ConstSvcs ConstSvcs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyRoyale View Post
Hope your not planning to fill that 14 yd can with dirt or gravel-nice truck nonetheless.
Not at 2,200 lbs per cubic yd.

If I need a large load of earth products I'll continue to to handle it the way I always have...........have it delivered
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Turbo Turf 300E hydroseeder
Harley Mx8H
FFC Preparator
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