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  #11  
Old 03-20-2008, 12:08 AM
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Whitey4 Whitey4 is offline
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Originally Posted by humble1 View Post
When i get motivated i have to put my before and after pics on here.

This is where i have had good results
Dethatch, Aerate 2 times, broadcast seed 1/2 down, slice seed the rest in two directions.
Starter fert.
The grass will grow in and be long way before the crabgrass can come in, mow it high 4" by the time crab starts to come in you could use aclaim i thing as long as it is 6 week old grass you would have to check the label. get on a program for grub, weeds etc. Start next year off w/ pre emergent.
Humble, that sounds like a very good approach. Here is what I run up against. COST. That is what I would do on my own lawn. How much per M do you charge for all of that? This is my sticking point. What would you charge for doing say 2 to 4 th square ft? I figure it at about $400 for 2k. Most customers gag on their coffee at those prices, so I cut corners.

I have no doubt you get GREAT results with that plan, but how many customers will pay that much? Are my estimates way off?
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2008, 10:08 PM
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Bumping this for Humble.... I'm still pretty new to turf, so I'd like to hear your response to my last post....
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2008, 01:53 PM
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well i own all my equipment. If you have to rent it you might want to line up a few. Doing it by yourself Figure 1/2 hour to dethatch flail blade. I use redmax 8000 series back packs can blow it all into a pile pick up another .5-1 hour. Aerate and slice seed 1 hour and 15-25 pounds, 4-6 pounds per K total. starter fert appropriate amount.

2-4 K renovation Call it 3-4 hours and 25 pounds of seed at $2.00 you have $50 in seed and 350 labor for 3 hours, thats why people would gag. Once again price depends on area. I have several before and after pics I present to show them, i have a list of homes in their area we either hydroseeded or over seeded, so i get the job. You might have to bid some lower to get the job, take the pics before and after. Stop by often to make sure they are watering properly.
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  #14  
Old 03-21-2008, 07:18 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I think I will use the Lebanon starter fert with Tupersan. It's expensive, but for small 2k plots, not too bad. Then maybe a second pre-m after the 4th mowing. Still concerned about erosion.... but this is a small spot... I could even tarp it for a day if a big storm is coming in.
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2008, 08:50 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Whitey and Riggle are both right. I try to recommend that ALL seeding be done during the last week of August or the first week of September. If you seed in the spring (especially now), you won't see grass for at least another month. It's too cold right now for germination or growing. In ideal conditions, Ryegrass needs 7-10 days to germinate and Bluegrass needs 21-28 days to germinate. Right now, we're not even close to ideal conditions.

Applying your seed when it warms up enough to germinate/grow will produce poor results because crabgrass and weeds are also germinating at the same time. To reseed in the spring, you need to use Tupersan (Siduron), which is very expensive. You also have to apply it at 3 week intervals until the lawn is strong enough to withstand a conventional crabgrass pre-emergent control. I won't even go into the intermittant heavy spring rains that almost always ruin new seed jobs.

Also, if you're seeding in the springtime, this hinders your ability to apply conventional crabgrass pre-emergents or weed controls because they will damage the newly applied seed. This WILL ruin a new seed job rather quickly. Once the crabgrass germinates, it'll take over the entire areas that are in the sun and another seed job will be needed.

I know that there are some lawns that cannot wait until Fall to be reseeded. Those customers HAVE TO KNOW that if they want a good job, they need to invest additional money for the Siduron or blanket sprays of Drive.

It seems that every Spring, people want to "fix" their lawns. Why does the thought never occur to them to fix them in the Fall?

Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 03-21-2008 at 08:55 PM.
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  #16  
Old 03-22-2008, 10:29 AM
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des1477 des1477 is offline
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I live in FLA and we use Talstar, kills every bug in the yard . But you will have to replace the bad areas of crabgrass. I dont know if they sell it up north . We get it from Lesco. Dont know if this helps.
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  #17  
Old 03-22-2008, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hissing Cobra View Post
Whitey and Riggle are both right. I try to recommend that ALL seeding be done during the last week of August or the first week of September. If you seed in the spring (especially now), you won't see grass for at least another month. It's too cold right now for germination or growing. In ideal conditions, Ryegrass needs 7-10 days to germinate and Bluegrass needs 21-28 days to germinate. Right now, we're not even close to ideal conditions.

Applying your seed when it warms up enough to germinate/grow will produce poor results because crabgrass and weeds are also germinating at the same time. To reseed in the spring, you need to use Tupersan (Siduron), which is very expensive. You also have to apply it at 3 week intervals until the lawn is strong enough to withstand a conventional crabgrass pre-emergent control. I won't even go into the intermittant heavy spring rains that almost always ruin new seed jobs.



Also, if you're seeding in the springtime, this hinders your ability to apply conventional crabgrass pre-emergents or weed controls because they will damage the newly applied seed. This WILL ruin a new seed job rather quickly. Once the crabgrass germinates, it'll take over the entire areas that are in the sun and another seed job will be needed.

I know that there are some lawns that cannot wait until Fall to be reseeded. Those customers HAVE TO KNOW that if they want a good job, they need to invest additional money for the Siduron or blanket sprays of Drive.

It seems that every Spring, people want to "fix" their lawns. Why does the thought never occur to them to fix them in the Fall?
I know alot of you guys on here are good with chemicals, but i have to say in one summer we hydroseeded over 600 lawns, if you buy a turbo turf hydroseeder ray badger put a quote from me in his marketing marterial (my other company) you have good points, but you are wrong about spring seedings. If all things are equal starting with bare dirt, new seed, and proper temperature it is possible to get a very good stand of grass that will shade out any weeds. Not to say you wont get some. But if someone has say, a lawn that got devestated by insects, seed in the spring ,get the weeds under control later. I have had the worst luck seeding in the fall do to huricane season and yup whitey is in the area where he could get fall huricane rains. Maybe you have had bad luck doing overseeding, but maybe you arent preping the area properly, using the wrong seed, or maybe the customer isnt watering it properly. Your stating positively that crabgrass will take over, that is an overstatement on your end, and i disagree. Ask any professional hydroseeder on here, they get good spring results.
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  #18  
Old 03-22-2008, 11:11 PM
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rcreech rcreech is offline
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You can seed from April to October and do just fine!

Yes fall is the best time to seed....but you can grow grass anytime, it just takes a little more effort and maintenance (ie watering, weed control etc).

Why make the customer wait 6 months and go through another summer with a bad looking lawn?

I already have 21 seedings scheduled for April, and I am not worried one bit!

This is my fourth year seeding and I have not had a bit of trouble. I seed in the spring and summer and a ton in the fall!

If it is a larger area that can't be taken care of and it gets too late in the spring, then you may want to wait until fall.

But if it is under 20K, I would go ahead and to it!
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  #19  
Old 03-22-2008, 11:11 PM
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rcreech rcreech is offline
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Double posted! So I erased!

Last edited by rcreech; 03-22-2008 at 11:20 PM.
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