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  #11  
Old 10-11-2008, 11:08 AM
Marcos Marcos is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Cincinnati OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaglegun View Post
Marcos, I understand exactly what you're saying about aeration not being the proper seed placement task. What it is, is a time saver if you can get a good result. You eliminated a part of the process. I tried this this year. Tell me what you think:

1 Aeration 3 ways
2 Drag with a infield drag
3 Seed, fert, lime
4 topdress sand and soil mix
5 Drag again
Sounds awfully dusty to me!
How did it turn out?

Was the field "compacted"...to warrant aeration?
Or was this alot more "economically feasible" to you than slicing it?

Personally, I might have switched the order of steps #4 and #5, which would ensure that I wouldn't be 'burying' a certain % of my seed and fertilizer too low in the soil zone, and thus (potentially) wasting some of it.
The final dragging (step #5) should be enough to ensure adequate seed/soil contact.

Proper seed/soil contact is vital in any grow-in project.
But don't make the mistake in "burying" your renovation project below a cocktail of soil amendments!
Seed grows just fine...right near the TOP....assuming that the irrigation & moisture control measures are there.
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2008, 04:02 PM
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beaglegun beaglegun is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mt Washington Ky
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This field is played on 6 days a week from April until mid Sept. I can see new seedlings but not as thick as I would hope. I did this last Saturday so I should get more germination this week I would think.
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  #13  
Old 10-11-2008, 11:33 PM
MCLC MCLC is offline
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Location: STL
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I only do small residential properties with a Turfco Turnair Six, but a couple of days ago I saw a guy from Yard Pro using a tractor with an over seeder and I decided to stop and ask questions and look, he was over seeding a large commercial property with a 60" Aeravator from Fist Products with a seed box on top, he told me that he has used that machine on sports field and people can use them right away. The ground was very dry and compacted and after he he got back to work I went behind to look at the ground, it was very loose and the seed to soil was much better than a core aerator and the existing grass did not look very disturbed, also he did not need to raise the Aeravator as it turns with the tractor. I will go back to that property in a couple of weeks to see the germination over the polka dot results you get with a core aerator. I did not asked how much he charged.
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2008, 03:04 PM
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beaglegun beaglegun is offline
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Location: Mt Washington Ky
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I'm going to the GIE+Expo next week. It's just 25 miles north. I'm going mostly to look at an Aeravator.If this machine works as people have said it does, I believe it would be worth the money if you could get several local High Schools interested.
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2008, 11:25 AM
Marcos Marcos is offline
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Location: Cincinnati OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaglegun View Post
I'm going to the GIE+Expo next week. It's just 25 miles north. I'm going mostly to look at an Aeravator.If this machine works as people have said it does, I believe it would be worth the money if you could get several local High Schools interested.

How well an Aeravator works in various situations hinges directly upon how much soil moisture is present at that given time, as well as the differences in porosity of the soil structure.
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2008, 02:38 PM
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beaglegun beaglegun is offline
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Location: Mt Washington Ky
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Isn't that true with any aeration process? I had heard that an Aeravator would break through harder ground then any core aerator.
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2008, 11:03 AM
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Ramrods Ramrods is offline
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here is my 2 cents, from 30 + years of maintaining golf courses, school districts, residential and professional sports franchises facilities.

I am not a big proponent of core aerification of home lawns. At one time I owned 75k worth of aerifiaction equipment. I did not even do my own lawn. I believe the homeowner does not get enough benefit to justify the cost. On the flip side if every kid in the neighborhood was playing on your lawn everyday, in the same spots, playing baseball-soccer football and whatever, then maybe the cost is worth it. But for an average home lawn I don't sell a service I know they don't need. I am about giving value for their money. I earned my reputation over the last number of years selling results that they can see. That's why my phone has rung from FIFA and other high profile franchises. I would much rather do a slit seed de-thatching with starter to renovate.

Now on many of my school fields I will be coring, then topdressing seed into the cores, than dragging with a tine harrow. This has worked great for many of my fields for years. With REAL compaction issues on these fields, like goal mouths and sidelines it definitely essential for recovery. On my golf courses we core sometimes then slit seed into that then drag. works great for tees, fairways, rough, and greens if your using the right equipment.but for a home lawn the conditions are totally different. The level of play on a home lawn is way different than the level of play at a golf courses, or even a local soccer field.

BTW I do have a turf grass degree as well.

Sorry for the rant. I hate landscapers who generate work, and profits when the services may not be needed. I earned my rep by using the right product, at the right time, with the right piece of equipment, at the right rate.

whats up with coring in different directions, use the right equipment and slow down or narrow your spacing.

as for the first products aerivator, I has used the different versions over the years. seedivator/with seed box, aerivator without, the slower you go the more agitation your going to get with the fingers. I have gone dog slow in hard pan behind baseball backstops and have totally pulverized the soil and Incorporated the seed, with great results with alot of seed germinating. However on the flip-side the seedivator is not good for over-seeding into a fairway or athletic field. it just does not do a good job of incorporating seed because you already have a thatch layer to contest with. Seed needs to be in the soil and the seedivator won't do that in a good established turf, but it will do an awesome job on cart paths, walkways, backstops, common ground areas and other areas where the grass cover is thin. So buy what you need for the work you will be doing. I have used the old olathe 83 design that toro bought out for 20+ years. I have gone thru 3 of these machines over that time seeding thousands of acres, in all kinds of conditions, from dust bowls fairways that were not watered all season to the best condition stadium fields. this type of seeding has always worked with great % of germination. I had the opportunity to purchase a land pride seeder a few years back. Its got the rolling barrels up front that you angle for more agitation. Its ground driven not pto powered. So my results with it were sub par once again in my existing good turf situations. Since most of my accounts are in great shape i found it was not a good tool for me. For a landscaper seeding into new construction, and new seedbeds probably perfect. So I sold it. So just do your homework and buy the right tool for the job, don't rely on a salesman, unless he has a turf management back round and you know you can trust him.

Thanks for your time
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